The Way of El Salvador

The Way of El Salvador is one of the lesser-known but most magical routes linked to the Camino de Santiago. Stretching from León to Oviedo, it traverses breathtaking landscapes of mountains, valleys, and rivers. This route presents both a physical and mental challenge, rewarded by idyllic, awe-inspiring panoramic views and a direct connection to the essence of the Camino.

This route is associated with a special saying: “He who goes to Santiago and not to the Savior visits the servant and forgets the Lord.” This phrase reminds pilgrims of the importance of visiting Oviedo’s cathedral. But what is the significance of this tradition? Join us on this historical journey along the Way of El Salvador to discover what makes it so special.

Oviedo, with its cathedral, marks the end of the Way of El Salvador

History of the Way of El Salvador

In the late 8th century, following the beginning of the Islamic invasion, a chest of sacred relics from Jerusalem arrived on the Iberian Peninsula. Known as the Holy Ark, it reached the northern region after a long journey through Alexandria, Cartagena, and Toledo. Eventually, it was hidden in the Santo Toribio de Liébana monastery in Cantabria, located at the end of the Camino Lebaniego, to protect it from invaders.

As the Muslims advanced, King Alfonso II the Chaste of Asturias moved the royal court to Oviedo in 792, where he fortified the city and built the Church of San Salvador. The Holy Ark was later relocated to Oviedo, where it was kept in the Chapel of San Miguel next to the church.

Alfonso II the Chaste, one of the protagonists in the history of the Camino del Salvador

In 1075, during the reign of Alfonso VI, the Ark was opened, revealing its invaluable contents, including the Holy Shroud, believed to have covered the face of Jesus Christ after the crucifixion. This discovery made Oviedo a pilgrimage site comparable in importance to the Apostle Santiago’s tomb in Compostela, giving rise to the Way of El Salvador.

Stages of the Way of El Salvador

This route spans approximately 120 kilometers, connecting León and Oviedo. Its mountainous terrain makes it ideal for experienced pilgrims seeking a more intimate connection with nature.

The green Asturian meadows are a spectacle for the pilgrim

The route is typically completed in six stages, though this may vary depending on the physical condition of the pilgrim. The most common division is as follows:

Stage 1: León – La Robla (27 km)

From León, the route follows the Bernesga River to Carbajal de la Legua, where it is essential to stock up. It passes through Villalbura, San Pelayo and Cabanillas before continuing along the “Bernesga oaks” towards Cascantes and ending in La Robla. Mixed terrain with moderate difficulty.

Stage 2: La Robla – Poladura de la Tercia (23,2 km)

It starts with a flat stretch to Pola de Gordón, followed by a challenging climb to the Forcadas de San Antón (1450 m) with stunning views, before descending to Poladura.

Stage 3: Poladura de la Tercia – Pajares (14,1 km)

The main stage includes the climb to the Cruz del Salvador and the Collada del Coito (1568 m), the highest point of the route. It continues across the Cuchillo mountain range and descends towards Pajares, passing by streams and mountain paths.

There will be no shortage of demanding high mountain sections

Stage 4: Pajares – Pola de Lena (23,8 km)

With green landscapes and views of the Ubiñas massif, the path descends towards San Miguel and Llanos de Somerón. It includes Santa Cristina de Lena, a pre-Romanesque gem, and becomes flat from Campomanes.

Stage 5: Pola de Lena – Mieres (13,4 km)

A quiet and easy stage with stops in Villallana (San Martín church and Temple granary) and Santa Eulalia de Ujo. Ideal for relaxing and enjoying the cider houses before the next challenge.

Stage 6: Mieres – Oviedo (18,8 km)

Predominantly urban, it combines stretches of asphalt and Roman road. It is an up and down route passing through El Padrún, La Manzaneda and La Manjoya, ending in Oviedo with a pleasant walk.

At the end of the Camino del Salvador you can enjoy Oviedo

Pilgrim Credentials and the Salvadorana Certificate

The Pilgrim Credential for the Way of El Salvador is necessary to access pilgrim accommodations and services. It costs between €2 and €5, depending on where it is acquired. With the completed credential with one stamp for each stage, pilgrims can obtain the Salvadorana, an official certificate signed by the Dean of Oviedo Cathedral.

Where to Get the Pilgrim Credential for the Camino de San Salvador?

You can obtain this special Credential at various locations:

• Camino de Santiago Association in León.
• Tourist offices in La Robla and Pola de Gordón.
• Hostels in León, La Robla, Poladura, Pajares, and Pola de Lena.
• Certain local shops, such as those in villages like Carbajal de la Legua.

There is a specific credential for the Camino del Salvador, although the standard Camino de Santiago credential can also be used

However, if you already have the standard pilgrim credential for the Camino de Santiago, you should know that it is also valid for the Camino de San Salvador!

The Salvadorana Certificate

Additionally, with the Camino del Salvador Credential properly stamped, you can obtain the Salvadorana, the official document that certifies the completion of the Camino de San Salvador, signed by the Dean of the Cathedral of Oviedo. This other pilgrim certificate can be collected either at the Cathedral of Oviedo, where pilgrims are welcomed at the entrance, or at the El Salvador Hostel in Oviedo.

Remember to get your credential stamped at least once a day to be eligible for the Salvadorana

Services and Signage on the Camino del Salvador

Although it is a less-traveled route, the Camino del Salvador offers basic services that ensure a comfortable and safe experience for pilgrims. However, it’s always a good idea to gather information in advance, for example, by visiting the official website of the Camino de Santiago Association for the Camino de San Salvador. Some of the services available include:

• Hostels and Accommodations: While fewer in number compared to other routes, the hostels along this route are generally welcoming and provide the essentials for rest.
• Refreshment Points: Many villages have bars and restaurants where you can enjoy local cuisine, such as the famous Cabrales cheese or Asturian fabada.
• Signage: Yellow arrows and signs are present throughout the route, though it’s advisable to carry a map, GPS, or a Camino de Santiago app.

The yellow arrow is a universal marker on all Jacobean routes, and you’ll find it on the Camino del Salvador as well.

Tips for Enjoying the Camino del Salvador

To ensure a smooth and enjoyable experience along this route, we recommend following these tips:

• Prepare physically: This route includes challenging mountainous sections, so good physical preparation is essential.
• Choose the right season: Be sensible and avoid tackling this Camino in autumn or winter, as the high-altitude sections can be heavily snowed in. Opt for spring or summer instead.
• Plan your accommodations: Check the availability of hostels in advance.
• Take your time: The Camino del Salvador is a journey to connect with nature and history. Slow down and savor every step of the way.

After reaching Oviedo, you can continue to Santiago de Compostela via the Camino Primitivo or the Camino del Norte

The Camino del Salvador emerged as a connection between León, on the French Way, and Oviedo, on the Primitive Way, making it a route of great religious significance. Although it lost popularity in recent centuries, it is regaining attention thanks to its authenticity and beauty. The Camino del Salvador is also a hidden gem among the Jacobean routes, perfect for those seeking authenticity, stunning landscapes, and a physical challenge. If you’re looking for a unique and exciting experience, this route is for you! Are you ready to discover it?