French Way from O Cebreiro

Stages

• day 1

  Arrival at O Cebreiro

  We leave Villafranca del Bierzo towards O Cebreiro crossing the river Burbia and we find a fork with two options: The historical road or the mountain road, both of them join in Trabadelo.

  Option A) Historic route: We continue straight on along a secondary road that leads to the national road, with hardly any traffic. We go along the hard shoulder next to the river Valcarce and we reach Pereje by a detour on the right. We cross Pereje by the main street and continue without complications until Trabadelo.

  Option B) Mountain path: We continue to the right and start a steep climb. This path has 400 meters of positive slope and is 1.5 km longer than the historical route. Before starting the steep descent to Trabadelo, we pass through the small village of Pradela. This option is not suitable for cyclists.

  We leave Trabadelo and pass several times over the gigantic viaducts of the A-6. After 2 kilometres the Camino ends, in a very dangerous way, right at one of the exits of the busiest motorway. We recommend extreme caution. In Portela de Valcarce, we find a service station with cafeteria where we can make the first stop of the day. It also has a small supermarket where they sell typical products from El Bierzo.

  We leave Portela behind us and after a long stretch walking along the left-hand side of the N-VI, we reach a crossroads where we must turn off towards Ambasmestas, from where we continue straight on to Vega de Valcarce, where we find all the services.

  The path continues gently uphill until it reaches the villages of Ruitelán and Las Herrerías. At the latter, we pass the fountain and come to a fork that leads either to the Molino Verde or to La Faba, which is the option we should take. As soon as you cross the wooden bridge the climb becomes steeper and steeper. We leave the road and turn off onto a path that gives us a break as we cross the Refoxo stream. Now we start an important zigzagging ascent that leads us to the next high point, we arrive at La Faba.

  We leave the village along an ancient Roman road and contemplate the beautiful landscape of Atlantic forests in the distance. We continue along a mountainous stretch where there is hardly any vegetation and we approach Laguna de Castilla, the last village in Castilla y León on the French Way. Here there is a restaurant and a hostel where we can stop. We leave La Laguna and continue in the same direction, advancing halfway up the slope of a mountain range and slowly gaining altitude.

  We enter, at last, in Galicia. A stone cairn marks the entrance to the Autonomous Community and indicates that we only have 152 km to Santiago de Compostela.

  The last effort takes us past an uninhabited stone house. And so we arrive at the Gaiteiro monument, which recalls a medieval legend that tells of a German pilgrim who got lost in the mountains and was able to reach this place guided by the sound of a bagpipe.

  Once at the top, the views are spectacular. We pass in front of a crossroads, constructions that once marked the crossroads and with which we must become familiar from now on.

  The path takes us to the end of the stage at the back of the church of Santa María la Real. We arrive to O Cebreiro and we enjoy a magical day among pallozas, and cobbled streets that keep secrets of important legends and miracles.

  To consider

  The stage between Villafranca del Bierzo and O Cebreiro has several points to take into account when preparing the stage. On leaving Villafranca del Bierzo, we find the Pradela variant, also known as the "mountain road", well signposted. Despite being 1.5 km longer, it is a perfect option for pilgrims seeking solitude and silence. The path crosses spectacular Atlantic forests and gives us beautiful panoramic views of the Valcarce valley. This option is not recommended for cyclists.

  In O Cebreiro accommodation is scarce and is usually full in high season. We recommend getting information in advance or spending the night in one of the villages along the way, such as Las Herrerías or Laguna de Castilla, which has a hostel.

  Places of interest

  • Church of San Juan Bautista - La Portela de Valcarce
  • Church of Nuestra Señora del Carmen - Ambasmestas
  • Castle of Sarracín - Vega de Valcarce
  • Church of San Julián - Las Herrerías
  • Pallozas de O Cebreiro - O Cebreiro
  • Church of Santa María la Real - O Cebreiro

  Typical dishes

  • Cheese D.O. O Cebreiro
  • Chestnuts
  • Galician stew
  • Slaughter by-products
  • Galician Empanada
  • Meat from autochthonous livestock
• day 2

  Stage 1. O Cebreiro - Triacastela (20.8 km)

  We leave O Cebreiro towards Triacastela, leaving behind the hostel and we follow a dirt path that goes up the Pozo de Area mountain, until we gain 100 metres of height difference and reach 1,332 metres. From the top we can contemplate the spectacular panoramic view: to the north we can see the beautiful Navia valley and the imposing Picos de Ancares, to the south the extraordinary Sierra de O Courel.

  We continue along a forest track until we reach Liñares, where we come across the church of San Esteban, a pre-Romanesque church dating back to the 15th century. VIII. From here the path begins to ascend over Os Ancares, taking us through a succession of ups and downs through forests. After reaching the Alto de San Roque (1,270 m) we can admire the bronze statue of a pilgrim fighting against the wind, created by the sculptor José María Acuña as a tribute to all the pilgrims who have overcome these passes.

  After this ascent, we continue parallel to the road and reach the village of Hospital da Condesa. We continue our route through a complicated stretch due to the steep slopes until we reach Padornelo, where we find the church of San Xoán (15th century).

  We leave the church behind and take strength for the hard ascent of the Alto do Poio which, at 1,337 metres, is the highest peak of the Way of St. James in Galicia. The ascent is hard, but it is compensated by the extraordinary views that give us strength to reach the top. Once we reach the top, we can take a well-deserved rest in the Albergue del Puerto bar.

  We continue our stage descending along a dirt track to Fonfría, which preserves the old hospital for pilgrims Santa Catalina and in its parish church there is a 17th century gilded silver chalice.

  We continue descending until we reach the villages of O Biduedo and Fillobal and As Pasantes in the municipality of Triacastela. We advance quickly, but not before stopping at an imposing centenary chestnut tree. We arrive at the small village of Triacastela and put an end to our first fully Galician stage.

  To consider

  If we do the stage in winter, we must be attentive to the weather, as we are in an area of frequent snowfalls that make it impossible for pilgrims to pass through. In case of snow it is recommended to follow the road to avoid getting lost.

  Places of interest

  • Church of San Estevo de Liñares
  • High of San Roque
  • Church of San Xoán do Hospital
  • Alto do Poio
  • Chapel of San Mamede - Triacastela

  Typical dishes

  • Cheese D.O. O Cebreiro
  • Meat from autochthonous livestock
  • Slaughter by-products
  • Galician stew
  • Chestnuts from Os Ancares
  • Typical homemade sweets from Os Ancares
• day 3

  Stage 2. Triacastela - Sarria (17.9 km)

  We leave Triacastela and on our way to Sarria we are presented with two well signposted options: Samos or San Xil? Both options are of great interest, so the decision is yours.

  Stage Triacastela - Sarria via San Xil (17.9 km)

  After crossing the avenue Camino José Cela we take the detour on the right, which takes us to a local road towards San Xil. After passing A Balsa, along a steep slope we arrive at the Fonte dos Lameiros, with a large shell.

  We continue up an asphalted track to San Xil, where we find a vending machine. We continue by road to the vicinity of the top of Riocabo, where we leave the asphalt to enjoy the most beautiful stretch of the stage. Lush forests of chestnut, oak and birch trees escort us down to the small village of Montán.

  We continue down to Fontearcuda and cross the road to take a path that avoids the long detour of the road. We cross a river and continue along a path that comes back to the road. The centenary forests give way to green meadows, a landscape that we will see until Furela, where we can regain strength in the bar at the roadside.

  We leave behind the village of Furela and enter, at last, the municipality of Sarria. We arrive at Pintín, where there is also a bar and a restaurant. We continue close to the road and we enter a wooded stretch that leads us to the public hostel of Calvor.

  After passing Aguiada, Airexe and San Mamede do Camiño we start to see Sarria in the distance. We continue the last stretch through small slides, we pass by a campsite and we arrive at Sarria.

  Stage Triacastela - Sarria through Samos (25 km)

  At the fork we turn left towards Samos. In this variant we will have to be guided by the arrows, since we will not see cairns. We leave following the road until we reach San Cristovo do Real, where we can see the pazo of Lusío and the Casa Forte. We continue past the village of Renche, walking through a beautiful natural environment on the banks of the river Oribio. We arrive at Lastres and Freituxe, from where we go up to the parish of San Martiño, with a Romanesque church.

  At the exit of San Martiño we cross the road through a tunnel and go straight down to Samos, enjoying an impressive panoramic view over the monastery. The spectacular Benedictine monastery of Samos is one of the oldest in Spain. It was founded in the 6th century and has 1500 years of almost uninterrupted monastic life. There are guided tours and you can get your credential stamped.

  After the usual visit, we leave Samos by road and arrive at Teiguín, where we cross the road to take a track that goes up by hand. From here the path alternates paths with asphalted tracks and enters the small villages of Gorolfe, Veiga and Sivil. In the latter, we cross the river Sarria over a medieval bridge with a chapel.

  We arrive at the concello of Sarria through the village of Perros, where we see a manor house. We cross the road to get to Aguiada, where we connect with the variant by San Xil and we do the last 4 kilometres to Sarria, our end of the stage.

  To consider

  The stage through San Xil is 6.6 kilometres shorter and crosses one of the most beautiful valleys of the French Way. If we decide to do this stage, it is advisable to leave with enough water and food, as we will not find many services where we can stock up.

  On the other hand, the Samos stage is a little longer and goes through spectacular oak and chestnut forests on the banks of the river Oribio. Undoubtedly the most interesting part of the stage is the visit to the Benedictine Monastery of Samos, one of the most impressive monuments in Galicia.

  Although it is a difficult decision, whichever path we take, we are sure to get it right.

  Places of interest

  • Church of San Cristovo do Real - Por Samos
  • Benedictine Monastery of Samos - Around Samos
  • Church of San Esteban - By San Xil
  • Church of San Salvador - Sarria

  Typical dishes

  • Porco Celta
  • Octopus á Feira
  • Galician Veal
  • Fried Milk
  • Roscones
  • Filloas of milk or blood
• day 4

  Stage 3. Sarria - Portomarín (22 km)

  We say goodbye to Sarria, with our minds set on Portomarín, along the rúa Maior and follow the arrows until we reach a viewpoint adorned with a cross, from where we have an excellent panoramic view of the town.

  We pass by the Convent of La Magdalena and go down to the river Pequeño to cross the medieval bridge of Aspera. The path takes us through meadows and orchards, we cross the railway tracks and then a small stream over a wooden bridge. We climb up a steep slope to Paredes, where there is a pre-Roman fort.

  From Paredes we arrive at Vilei, where we find a fabulous rest area with all kinds of vending machines and a stamp with which we can decorate our credentials. We continue on asphalt to Barbadelo, where we must visit the Romanesque church, paying attention to its façades and capitals.

  We leave Barbadelo behind and continue along a path to the villages of Rente and Mercado da Serra, where we find a tavern. We continue straight on along a wooded path that leads us to the fountain of Pelegrín, the mascot of Xacobeo 93. We pass by the Marzán Mill and a little further on we cross the road to go through Leiman and Peruscallo. We leave the asphalt to advance to Cortiñas and Lavandeira.

  Between stone walls and forests we reach Brea and Morgade, where we find the much photographed milestone of the 100 kilometres.

  The road continues along the asphalted track to Mirallos, where we find the Restaurant O Mirallos, a spectacular place to eat. Next we can see the Romanesque church of Santa María, which was moved stone by stone from Ferreiros. After passing A Pena, we advance to O Couto and Rozas, where it is common to find cattle. We leave the asphalt to take a wooded path in slight ascent. We pass the village of Moimentos and arrive at Mercadoiro, where there is also a bar.

  Then we visit Moutrás, and after an obligatory stop at the Peter Punk shop, we gently descend along the basin of the river Miño, interspersed with asphalt and dirt while we can see Portomarín in the background. Without further ado we reach Parrocha, we cross a road to Vilacha.

  We now start a steep descent that takes us to the Miño river and the beautiful village of Portomarín, which shines with its white facades and grey roofs. After crossing the long bridge over the reservoir, we go up the steps of the chapel of A Virxe das Neves and enter the centre of the village. We finish the stage and enjoy a pleasant afternoon in one of the most beautiful villages of the French Way in Galicia.

  To consider

  The stage between Sarria and Portomarín has all the necessary services for the pilgrim. We won't have any problems with refreshments, every few kilometres we will find a great variety of places to rest and have a drink.

  There is a belief that says that if we don't climb the Portomarín staircase in one go we will have bad luck for the rest of our Camino. So you know... No stopping!

  Places of interest

  • Church of Santiago de Barbadelo
  • Church of San Xulián de Chorente
  • Santa María de Ferreiros
  • Church of San Nicolás - Portomarín

  Typical dishes

  • Eels
  • Cake of Santiago (the best of all the Way of St. James)
  • Aguardiente (Gastronomic feast)
  • Stones of Portomarín
• day 5

  Stage 4. Portomarín - Palas de Rei (25 km)

  We leave Portomarín in the direction of Palas de Rei from the Church of San Nicolás and descend along the Rúa Compostela to the road, which we must cross to the right to continue along the hard shoulder of the road. We cross the river over a footbridge, turn right and enter a beautiful uphill path.

  We cross the road at the height of a factory and pass by a couple of farms before arriving at Toixibó, where we will be struck by a beautiful granary. We continue ascending to Gonzar, where we can make the first stop to regain strength.

  From here, the Way continues along a slope that climbs up to Castromaior with a final steep slope (about 600 metres). At this point it is worth taking a detour from the Camino to visit the Castro de Castromairor, a Celtic site that bears witness to the past of the Galician community.

  We leave Castromaior looking for the road, which we cross to go along a path for a kilometre and a half until we reach O Hospital do Alto da Cruz. We leave the village crossing a bridge over the road, we turn left onto an asphalted track that leads us to Ventas de Narón, with a very well preserved temple.

  We advance ascending until crowning the Ligonde mountain range, enjoying some stupendous panoramic views.

  We follow the path that descends to A Previsa and Os Lameiros, where we will find one of the most famous and unique crosses in Galicia, dating from 1679, from here the path turns off the road along a path on the left, following a steep ramp that leads us to Airexe to visit the church of Santiago, with Romanesque remains and sepulchre, a cruceiro and a rectory house.

  We continue down the path until we find a washhouse and arrive at the village of Portos, where some huge ants will welcome us. From here, we can leave the path for a moment to visit the Romanesque temple of Vilar de Donas, which houses several sarcophagi of Knights of the Order of Santiago.

  We follow the road and arrive at Lestedo, where on the right hand side we see its rectory, now converted into a rural house. The road continues without loss to A Brea and Alto del Rosario. If the day is clear we can see the Sacro peak, a mountain very close to Santiago de Compostela.

  Before arriving at Palas de Rei, we will cross the village of Rosario, which owes its name to the prayer of the walkers as thanks for the good luck during the journey. The last stretch of the stage we take a path on the left side of the road, we pass next to the Os Chacotes hostel and we enter Palas de Rei, ending our stage.

  To consider

  Those pilgrims who wish to visit the monastery of Vila de Donas, should deviate 2.3 km from the Camino. A neighbour has the keys and acts as a guide.

  Places of interest

  • Church of Santa María de Gonzar
  • Castro de Castromaior
  • Church of Santa María de Cortapezas - Castromaior
  • Monastery of Vilar de Donas
  • Double-sided cross - Os Lameiros
  • Church of San Tirso - Palas de Rei

  Typical dishes

  • Rustic bread from wood-fired oven
  • Galician octopus
  • Lacón with turnip tops
  • Arzúa-Ulloa D.O. Cheese
• day 6

  Stage 5. Palas de Rei - Arzúa (29 km)

  This is the longest stage of the French Route within the Galician community, so we recommend taking it easy and enjoying the surroundings, as it is also one of the most beautiful stretches of the route. A stop in Melide, the capital of Galician octopus, is a must for every pilgrim. After regaining strength, the last few kilometres won’t take much effort. You will also find a small oasis in Ribadiso de Abaixo, where, if the weather is fine, you can take a dip.
• day 7

  Stage 6. Arzúa - O Pedrouzo (20 km)

  This stage is a pleasant walk on flat and comfortable terrain, with plenty of bars and restaurants that will encourage you to take it easy. You will alternate between villages and pine and eucalyptus forests. Small towns like Salceda mark the halfway point of the stage, a perfect stop to recharge your batteries before the last kilometres of the stage.
• day 8

  Stage 7. O Pedrouzo - Santiago de Compostela (19 km)

  At last the last stage of your journey is here. As we said before, the sooner you start walking today the better, because the sooner you will get to Santiago de Compostela. Once you arrive at Monte do Gozo, you will discover that pleasant sensation when you first see the towers of the cathedral. A perfect panoramic view before savouring your last kilometres and making the triumphal entrance to the Plaza del Obradoiro.
• day 9

  End of the Camino

  After arriving... End of the Camino