Those of us who are passionate about the Camino de Santiago and about accumulating Jacobean routes in our boots know that those who walk the Way always find something new that surprises them. For example, who would have told you that in Cantabria there’s a Jacobean route of its own, independent from the Northern Way? And what if we told you that it even has its own Holy Year? That’s right, dear pilgrims, in this post we want to introduce you to one of the most magical and hidden routes of all: the Camino Lebaniego. Keep reading closely — we assure you it’s worth discovering more about this unique route.
History of the Camino Lebaniego
Perhaps more than asking about the history of the Camino Lebaniego, we should ask: why do people pilgrimage to Liébana? The reason for the pilgrimage lies in its main monument, the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana, which stands as one of the four holy places in Christianity, along with Jerusalem, Rome, and Santiago de Compostela. What makes this place exceptional is that it houses the largest known relic of the Lignum Crucis (wood of the cross, in Latin), meaning the largest piece ever recorded of Christ’s cross, specifically the left arm of the cross.
And now you’re probably wondering how this relic ended up in the monastery of Liébana. Well, the story goes that Saint Toribio was entrusted with safeguarding the relics of Jesus Christ in Jerusalem. However, upon returning to the Iberian Peninsula, he brought them to Astorga, and later, due to the Muslim invasion, Christians took them to Liébana to protect them from possible attacks.
When word spread of the relic’s presence in the Monastery of Santo Toribio, the faithful began to pilgrimage there, forming what we now know as the Camino Lebaniego.
Waymark of the Camino Lebaniego
The Lebaniego Holy Year
This is without a doubt one of the most peculiar and interesting things about this route: the Camino Lebaniego has its own Jubilee Year. This privilege dates back over five hundred years, when Pope Julius II issued a papal bull granting the Monastery of Santo Toribio the right to celebrate its own holy year. From that moment on, it was established that pilgrims who walked to the monastery during the holy year would receive plenary indulgence.
Thus, the Lebaniego Holy Year occurs when the saint’s feast day, April 16, falls on a Sunday. This happens every six, five, six, and eleven years, depending on leap years. And to obtain the Lebaniego Jubilee, just like the Jacobean one, two requirements must be met:
- Pray the Our Father, the Creed, and a prayer for the Pope.
- Go to confession and attend Mass at the monastery on April 16 or fifteen days before or after.
And just as with the Jacobean Holy Year, it is not mandatory to pilgrimage or pass through the Holy Door (or Door of Forgiveness, in the Lebaniego case), which is only opened during the Holy Year. It bears a Latin inscription: “Aperitur his quae clausa sunt,” meaning “That which is closed is opened.”
Stages of the Camino Lebaniego
The Camino Lebaniego, for those walking the Northern Way, begins at a junction in San Vicente de la Barquera and leads to Santo Toribio de Liébana. It’s set in a natural landscape framed by the Cantabrian Mountains and the Picos de Europa, and studies confirm the existence of more pilgrimage routes to the monastery of Liébana. These routes are marked as short-distance trails (PR).
Along its path, this itinerary crosses the municipalities of San Vicente de la Barquera, Val de San Vicente, Herrerías, Lamasón, Peñarrubia, Cillórigo, Potes, and Camaleño. It’s a beautiful 73 km route, divided into 3 stages, where pilgrims walk from the coast to the inland part of Cantabria.
Stage 1. San Vicente de la Barquera – Cades (28.5 km)
This stage is 28.5 km long, which might feel a bit lengthy for those unaccustomed to hiking. Before leaving San Vicente, it’s recommended to visit the Church of Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles in Gothic style, as well as the King’s Castle and the San Luis Convent. The route starts heading to Serdio and continues through Muñorrodero. After passing along the Nansa riverside path, it reaches Camijanes. The path then leads to Cabanzón, where it’s essential to stop and admire its medieval tower. The stage ends in Cades.
San Vicente de la Barquera
Stage 2. Cades – Cabañes (30.53 km)
In this second stage, we’ll need to walk a bit more. We leave Cades and head toward Lafuente, where we’ll find the Romanesque-style Church of Santa Juliana, declared a Site of Cultural Interest. Passing through Burió and the Collado de la Hoz, we’ll descend to Cicera. From Cicera we’ll head to Lebaña, where we’ll walk through an ancient oak forest — highly recommended for mushroom lovers. From there, we’ll proceed to Santa María de Lebeña, pass through Allende, and climb up to Cabañes, where the stage ends.
Santa María de Lebeña
Stage 3. Cabañes – Santo Toribio (13.7 km)
This is the shortest stage, which is very welcome since it’s the final one. We leave Cabañes and head to Tama, where we’ll find its Romanesque church. Taking the Campañana path lets us avoid the main road, with the Picos de Europa as a stunning backdrop. From Potes, we’ll head to the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana.
Monastery of Santo Toribio
The Credential and the Certificate: the Lebaniega
This route also has its own official credential, which you’ll need if you want to use public hostels along the route and if you want to obtain the certificate of completion, the Lebaniega. You can get it at several places: the Cristo parish in Santander, the Church of Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles in San Vicente de la Barquera, or at tourist offices throughout the region.
What are the infrastructure and signage like?
Obviously, due to its layout, the Camino Lebaniego is not as straightforward as the French Way or the Portuguese Way. However, a lot of effort has gone into signposting and improvements by the Cantabrian government to make it accessible. In addition to trail signage, plenty of information is available on the official website, including maps, photos, and directions. As for accommodations, there aren’t as many options as in other routes, but with a bit of advance planning and reservations, you’ll have no issues.
What can you see and do on the Camino Lebaniego?
The Camino Lebaniego is full of nature, history, culture, and gastronomy. Along the way, you’ll see spectacular landscapes such as the Picos de Europa, the Deva River, the Hermida Gorge, and the redwood forest of Cabezón de la Sal. You can also visit charming villages like Muñorrodero, Cicera, Potes, or Mogrovejo and explore their artistic and architectural heritage, including Romanesque churches, mountain manor houses, and medieval towers. You’ll also enjoy typical local cuisine like cocido lebaniego (stew), picón cheese, sobaos (pastries), or orujo (liquor).
A Camino between two Jacobean routes
Once you’ve arrived in Liébana, you can return to the Northern Way by retracing your steps or by taking the so-called Asturian route. Alternatively, you can continue south and link up with the French Way in Mansilla de las Mulas, León, via the Camino Vadiniense, as well as other alternative routes such as the Leonese, Castilian, or Sahagún ways.
The Camino Lebaniego lets you experience the heart of Cantabria in a very special way — by taking part in this ancient pilgrimage full of mountain landscapes, lush meadows, rich cultural heritage, and exquisite gastronomy. And if it coincides with a Lebaniego Jubilee Year, your experience will be even more memorable.
