We say goodbye to Sarria, with our minds set on Portomarín, along the rúa Maior and follow the arrows until we reach a viewpoint adorned with a cross, from where we have an excellent panoramic view of the town.
We pass by the Convent of La Magdalena and go down to the river Pequeño to cross the medieval bridge of Aspera. The path takes us through meadows and orchards, we cross the railway tracks and then a small stream over a wooden bridge. We climb up a steep slope to Paredes, where there is a pre-Roman fort.
From Paredes we arrive at Vilei, where we find a fabulous rest area with all kinds of vending machines and a stamp with which we can decorate our credentials. We continue on asphalt to Barbadelo, where we must visit the Romanesque church, paying attention to its façades and capitals.
We leave Barbadelo behind and continue along a path to the villages of Rente and Mercado da Serra, where we find a tavern. We continue straight on along a wooded path that leads us to the fountain of Pelegrín, the mascot of Xacobeo 93. We pass by the Marzán Mill and a little further on we cross the road to go through Leiman and Peruscallo. We leave the asphalt to advance to Cortiñas and Lavandeira.
Between stone walls and forests we reach Brea and Morgade, where we find the much photographed milestone of the 100 kilometres.
The road continues along the asphalted track to Mirallos, where we find the Restaurant O Mirallos, a spectacular place to eat. Next we can see the Romanesque church of Santa María, which was moved stone by stone from Ferreiros. After passing A Pena, we advance to O Couto and Rozas, where it is common to find cattle. We leave the asphalt to take a wooded path in slight ascent. We pass the village of Moimentos and arrive at Mercadoiro, where there is also a bar.
Then we visit Moutrás, and after an obligatory stop at the Peter Punk shop, we gently descend along the basin of the river Miño, interspersed with asphalt and dirt while we can see Portomarín in the background. Without further ado we reach Parrocha, we cross a road to Vilacha.
We now start a steep descent that takes us to the Miño river and the beautiful village of Portomarín, which shines with its white facades and grey roofs. After crossing the long bridge over the reservoir, we go up the steps of the chapel of A Virxe das Neves and enter the centre of the village. We finish the stage and enjoy a pleasant afternoon in one of the most beautiful villages of the French Way in Galicia.
The stage between Sarria and Portomarín has all the necessary services for the pilgrim. We won’t have any problems with refreshments, every few kilometres we will find a great variety of places to rest and have a drink.
There is a belief that says that if we don’t climb the Portomarín staircase in one go we will have bad luck for the rest of our Camino. So you know… No stopping!
Places of interest
- Church of Santiago de Barbadelo
- Church of San Xulián de Chorente
- Santa María de Ferreiros
- Church of San Nicolás – Portomarín
- Cake of Santiago (the best of all the Way of St. James)
- Aguardiente (Gastronomic feast)
- Stones of Portomarín