From Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis

This stage of the Portuguese Way is a gentle journey of just 21 kilometres, where you leave behind the bustle of Pontevedra and step into a Galician landscape that blends the green of the interior with the lingering echo of the coast. After crossing the river Lérez, it is worth pausing a moment to say goodbye to the Plaza de la Peregrina, patroness of those who walk, before turning north.

The first part of the route runs alongside the Marismas de Alba observatory, an eighty-hectare wetland that rewards anyone who stops to notice it: this is one of the richest ornithological spots in Galicia, with 123 bird species on record. A few minutes at the viewpoint are well spent, especially early in the morning, when the reflections on the water and the birdsong turn the pause into something more than a rest.

As you move on, the Way shares much of its path with secondary roads and crosses a few level crossings. Keep the pace steady and cross calmly: the stage is not physically demanding, but it does ask for a little care. At Briallos, barely half a kilometre off the trail, a short detour leads to the Barosa Waterfalls, a natural corner with a sixty-metre cascade and fourteen old watermills set along the stream. If the weather is kind, it is the kind of side trip nobody regrets: the damp of the forest, the sound of the water and the quiet sum up the best of inland Galicia.

The destination is Caldas de Reis, a spa town known since Roman times for its waters, which still rise hot in the middle of the village. After stamping your credencial, the almost unavoidable plan is to sit on a café terrace by the Roman bridge, bathe your feet in the thermal fountains and stroll through the botanical garden, a small green haven that follows the river and feels especially welcoming at sunset. Here the stage ends slowly, unhurried, preparing the body for the final push towards Santiago.

Once you have crossed the river Lérez, the Way will lead you away from Pontevedra and towards the Marismas de Alba observatory, a vast 80-hectare wetland that is home to a wide variety of plant species and 123 species of birds. The route runs along roads where numerous paths and level crossings intersect, so it is important to exercise caution. When you reach Briallos, we recommend you take a five hundred metre detour to visit the impressive Cascadas del Barosa waterfalls, a natural site of extraordinary beauty, where you can see a beautiful sixty metre high waterfall and fourteen windmills along the course of the water. When you reach the end of your stage in Caldas de Reis, water is still the main feature, as it is one of the most outstanding thermal destinations in Galicia. We suggest the perfect plan for a quiet afternoon: after a short stroll through the botanical garden, sit on one of the terraces and enjoy the serenity while you listen to the murmur of the river.