Samhain in Galicia: Exploring the Celtic Roots and Legends beyond Halloween

What Samaín in Galicia is, its Celtic origins, how it differs from Halloween, how it's celebrated today, and the legends of this night, like the Santa Compaña, plus how to experience it while walking the Camino de Santiago.

The Samaín is an ancestral festival with Celtic roots and a deep imprint on Galician culture. It's celebrated on the night of October 31st, the same night as Halloween, but they are not the same thing. In Galicia, the end of the Camino de Santiago and a land of legends, this night has its own name: Samaín.

We'll tell you where it comes from, what it has to do with Halloween, what legends go with it, and how to experience it today, including if you're walking the Camino on those dates.

The origin of Samaín in Galicia

Samaín, Samhain in Gaelic, is a word usually translated as "end of summer." It was a Celtic festival marking the turn of the new year: the end of the harvest and the start of the dark half of the year, the one of cold and long nights.

It was a festival of transition. Communities celebrated the fruits of their work in the fields around bonfires, and, according to tradition, that night a door opened between the world of the living and the world of the dead. Spirits and beings from the other world could cross through it, so people had to welcome them, or protect themselves from them.

Samaín and Halloween: what they have in common and what they don't

Halloween comes from All Hallows' Eve, "the eve of All Saints." It's the North American version of a tradition that Irish and Scottish emigrants brought to the United States, where it blended with other customs until it became the costume holiday we know today.

That's why Samaín and Halloween share a date and many symbols. On Samaín, food was left out for the spirits to keep them happy, and that's where "trick or treat," with children in costumes asking for sweets at houses, comes from. The big difference is that the Galician Samaín looks inward: to the memory of the dead, to its own legends, and to rural life.

The next day, November 1st, is All Saints' Day, when families in Galicia visit the cemeteries. And the season of magostos, the roasted chestnut festivals, begins.

How Samaín is celebrated today in Galicia

For years, Samaín was almost forgotten and Halloween took its place. But for more than 30 years now it has been reclaimed as a festival of its own. The driving force behind this was Rafael López Loureiro, a teacher from Cedeira who searched for its remnants all over Galicia and encouraged its revival in his hometown. Today, schools, associations, and town councils across Galicia organize activities every year.

Here are the traditions you'll see most:

• Pumpkins: they're hollowed out and carved into faces, with a candle inside. In the past, large turnips were used instead. In the Rías Baixas, they're called calacús.
• Fire: bonfires and candles to guide the souls.
• The table left set: in some homes, the table wasn't cleared after dinner, so the family's deceased could eat.
• Parades: in Cedeira, the birthplace of Samaín's revival, it's celebrated every year with pumpkin-carving workshops and a parade of "souls" dressed in white through the old town.

The mythological beings and legends of Galician Samaín

In Galicia, legends are part of everyday life, but at this time of year they take on more strength than ever. Told around the fire, they speak of dogs that howl when someone is about to die, of meigas, and of processions of souls in torment.

Meigas, bruxas, trasnos and mouras

The meigas (wise women versed in remedies, spells and the secrets of the other world) are the protagonists. Popular tradition often sets them apart from the bruxas, more closely tied to evil. Alongside them appear the trasnos, mischievous goblins who turn houses upside down, and the mouras, guardians of treasures hidden in hillforts and springs.

They're not exclusive to Galicia: similar figures appear in Asturias, Cantabria, or León. But the great Galician legend of this night is that of the Santa Compaña (literally, the "Holy Company").

The legend of the Santa Compaña

The Santa Compaña is a procession of souls in torment that wanders the Galician roads and forests at night. They walk in two rows, wearing robes and carrying lit candles. You can't see them, but you can sense them: there's a smell of wax, a cold breeze blows, and animals grow restless.

At the front walks a living person, condemned to carry the cross and the cauldron of holy water every night. In the morning they remember nothing, but they waste away little by little. The only way to be freed is to cross paths with another mortal and pass on the cross.

How to escape it

Tradition says that, if you come across it, there are remedies: taking shelter at a cruceiro (a Galician stone cross), drawing a circle on the ground and stepping inside it, or carrying a cross and praying. And, above all, never accept the candle or the cross they offer you.

A pilgrim's Samaín

Late October is a great time to walk the Camino de Santiago in autumn. The forests turn shades of ochre and yellow, the light is very special, and there are far fewer pilgrims than in summer. That said, after dark, it's best not to stray from the path.

Jacobean routes for experiencing Samaín

The French Way from Sarria passes through villages, oak groves, and chestnut woods where the legends are still very much alive. To the south, the Portuguese Way from Tui is another good option, with plenty of services and a slightly milder climate.

If you prefer the sea, the Portuguese Way of the Coast always runs alongside the Atlantic. And to close the Celtic circle, the Way of Finisterre and Muxía takes you to the ancient end of the world.

Remember that the Compostela is earned by walking at least the last 100 km to Santiago on foot, or by completing one of these routes.

What to eat on Samaín

Galician autumn is also enjoyed at the table. Caldo gallego, cocido, empanadas, and filloas are perfect dishes for fighting off the cold, paired with good local wines.

As the finishing touch, nothing beats a queimada (a flaming Galician liquor ritual) with its spell to scare away evil spirits. And at this time of year, roasted chestnuts are a must, heralding November's magostos.

Tips for walking the Camino during Samaín

• Choose your route and stages carefully: the days are shorter, so it's best not to make each stage too long.
• Book in advance: there are few pilgrims, but many accommodations close once the season ends.
• Pack your backpack for autumn: good footwear, warm clothing, thermal layers, and waterproof gear.
• Get close to the local culture: ask in the villages about Samaín or magostos celebrations; they're usually open to everyone.

If you'd like more ideas, here are our tips for walking the Camino.

Frequently asked questions about Samaín

What is Samaín?
It's an ancient Celtic festival that marked the end of the harvest and the start of winter. In Galicia it's celebrated on the night of October 31st and has been revived as its own alternative to Halloween.

Are Samaín and Halloween the same thing?
No, although they share a date and symbols like pumpkins. Halloween is the North American version of the Celtic traditions brought over by Irish and Scottish emigrants.

Where is Samaín celebrated in Galicia?
Activities take place all over Galicia, in schools, associations, and town councils. One of the best-known celebrations is in Cedeira, where its revival began.

What are calacús?
It's the name given in the Rías Baixas to hollowed-out pumpkins carved and lit with a candle inside, the great symbol of Samaín.

What is the Santa Compaña?
A procession of souls in torment that, according to Galician legend, wanders the roads at night with lit candles, led by a living person carrying the cross.

On Samaín, at nightfall, watch out for the Santa Compaña

Imagine walking the paths of Galicia at sunset in late October. The leaves crunch beneath your feet and the air fills with mystery, as you listen to the villages' legends and end the day by the fire.

Walking the Camino at this time of year is a unique experience that brings together Galicia's Samaín culture and the magic of autumn. If you feel like experiencing it, calculate the price of your autumn Camino here and pack your backpack.