The Secret of the Cemetery of the English

Did you know that there is a place full of mystery and tragedy on the Costa da Morte? This place is known as the Cemetery of the English, and its history is marked by a terrible shipwreck. Today, I will tell you the secret of this cemetery, one of the most intriguing stops on the Camino de los Faros.

The Cemetery of the English is a must-visit stop along the Camino de los Faros

The Legend of the Costa da Morte

The Costa da Morte, located in Galicia, is known for its dangerous waters and numerous shipwrecks, hence its name. Stories of sunken ships and lost sailors have fueled many local legends. Warships, fishing boats, shellfish gatherers… many have lost their lives in these waters!

Additionally, the Costa da Morte is named so because it is where the sun “dies”, with those fantastic sunsets typical of this area. The ancient pre-Christian inhabitants believed that the horizon of the Atlantic Ocean was where the souls of their dead traveled.

Monument in memory of the shipwrecked sailors of the Costa da Morte, at the Cemetery of the English

One of the most famous places on this coast is the Cemetery of the English. Here, amidst stunning landscapes, lies a tragic story whose memory has endured over time.

The Tragedy of the Serpent

The Cemetery of the English owes its name to an event that occurred on November 10, 1890. On that day, the British warship HMS Serpent shipwrecked near the Galician coast, in a place known as Punta do Boi. The ship, en route to Sierra Leone from Plymouth, was caught in a terrible storm. The bad weather and the sharp rocks of the coast caused the ship to sink quickly.

Of the 175 crew members on board, only three survived. The bodies of the recovered deceased, about 142, were buried on a nearby hill, creating what we now know as the Cemetery of the English. This place has become a memorial for those sailors and a point of interest for visitors to the Camino de los Faros.

Another monument commemorating the terrible tragedy of the HMS Serpent

The Barometer of the Serpent

The rescue of the sailors’ bodies was a solidarity act by the inhabitants of Camariñas, the fishing village to which this place belongs. In fact, the British Royal Navy gifted the ship’s barometer, recovered from the wreckage, which can be admired in the port.

The mayor received a watch, and the priest received a shotgun with the inscription “The Lords Commissioners of the British Admiralty” on the handle. In the years following the disaster, coinciding with the anniversary of the shipwreck, a British warship would come to the area. They honored the deceased with a wreath of flowers and salutes, also supplying the priest with ammunition for the weapon.

The Cemetery of the English is part of the European Route of Cemeteries, recognized like the Camino de Santiago as a European Cultural Route. Located next to the beautiful and dangerous beaches of Trece, this area has witnessed this and up to eight other shipwrecks in history.

Detail of the central chapel at the Cemetery of the English

One of the Must-Visit Stops on the Camino de los Faros

The Camino de los Faros, or Camiño dos Faros in Galician, is a hiking route that runs along the Costa da Morte. This path allows hikers to enjoy spectacular landscapes and discover places full of history and mystery. The Cemetery of the English is one of the most notable stops on this route.

Walking the Camiño dos Faros, hikers can feel the strength of nature and the history that envelops this coast. The Cemetery of the English offers a moment of reflection and connection with the past, remembering the bravery of the sailors who lost their lives in these treacherous waters.

A hiker on the Camino de los Faros, passing by the beaches of Trece

The secret of the Cemetery of the English not only lies in its tragic history but also in the atmosphere of the place. Surrounded by nature and with stunning sea views, this cemetery conveys a sense of peace and respect for those who rest there. It is a place that invites reflection and contemplation, an essential stop for any traveler on the Camino de los Faros.

In conclusion, the Cemetery of the English on the Costa da Morte is a site filled with history and emotion. Its legend, linked to the shipwreck of the HMS Serpent, makes it a unique and moving place. If you plan to walk the Camiño dos Faros, you cannot miss visiting this enigmatic cemetery. You will discover a fragment of the past that remains alive in the memory of all who pass through.