You cross the old stone bridge, hear the water of the Sarria River, and suddenly the stone silhouette of the Monastery of San Julián de Samos dominates the entire valley. The feeling has been the same for nearly fifteen centuries: those who arrive here sense that time slows down. Founded in the 6th century and still inhabited by Benedictine monks, this place offers silence, hospitality, and a scene that looks like it came straight out of a medieval codex. We’re here to show it to you in detail and with care, just how we like to do things on the Camino de Santiago.
The Monastery of Samos is a mythical site on the Camino de Santiago
Where is the Monastery of Samos?
The Monastery of Samos, as its name suggests, is located in this town in the southeast of the Lugo province, in Galicia. It’s the seat of a small municipality with nearly 3,000 inhabitants and is part of the route of the French Way of the Camino de Santiago.
Leaving Triacastela toward Sarria, the Camino offers pilgrims two possible routes, one of the many variants of the Camino: the more direct route through San Xil, about 18 km, or the Samos variant, a bit longer but much more special. This second option, around 24 km, descends among oaks and chestnut trees to the bottom of the valley, crossing silent hamlets and dew-covered meadows, leading the pilgrim to Samos and its imposing monastery.
For those traveling by car, the LU-633 road connects Sarria and Pedrafita do Cebreiro and passes right in front of the monastery gates, but the best way to arrive is on foot, backpack on your shoulders, with your Pilgrim Credential ready for another stamp.
Facade of the church of the Monastery of Samos
A brief journey through Samos’ history
The Monastery of Samos, declared a National Monument in 1944 and a Site of Cultural Interest, has a fascinating history dating back to the 6th century.
From hermits to a medieval landmark
It is believed to have been founded in the year 560 by Saint Martin of Dumio, and shortly after, Saint Fructuosus organized the monastic life. By 665, the monastery already appeared in Visigothic documents. After the Muslim invasion, the Asturian king Fruela I restored it and sent his son, the future Alfonso II the Chaste, the first pilgrim, who would later promote the creation of the pilgrimage routes. In fact, after the origin of the Camino de Santiago, the monastery also functioned as a pilgrim hospital.
Growth and rebirth
In 960, with the arrival of the Order of Saint Benedict, Samos flourished in lands, wealth, and prestige, becoming an important cultural center. However, after devastating fires, looting, and confiscations, the monastery was rebuilt and reborn in several phases over time.
Feijoo and the Enlightenment
In the 18th century, Benito Jerónimo Feijoo, one of the great thinkers of the Spanish Enlightenment, served as abbot here. A defender of science and reason, he left a legacy that lives on in academia. His statue in the Great Cloister honors him as a symbol of thought and knowledge in the monastery.
Alfonso II the Chaste was educated in Samos
Architecture that tells stories
The Monastery of Samos contains an impressive variety of spaces that tell stories from centuries past. Here are some of the highlights:
- Abbey Church: Built between 1734 and 1748, with a Latin cross design and a granite façade. It features a golden altarpiece and an organ with over 3,000 pipes, used for both masses and concerts.
- Great Cloister: Measuring 54 meters per side with three levels of arches, this nearly 3,000 m² cloister reflects the golden light of sunset, surrounding visitors with serenity and history.
- Small Cloister: Featuring late Gothic and Renaissance styles, with sharp pinnacles and a baroque fountain adorned with mythological figures—a charming and peaceful corner.
- Cypress Chapel: Located in the garden, this chapel dates back to the 9th century. It preserves pre-Romanesque walls and a centuries-old cypress said to have sprouted where Saint Martin of Tours rested his staff.
- Library and Archive: After the 1951 fire, the reopened library now houses over 25,000 volumes, including incunabula and ancient atlases. A true journey through time with the distinctive scent of parchment and old glue.
Chapel of the Savior or the Cypress Chapel of Samos
Monastic life and hospitality
The monastery follows the Benedictine rhythm, and pilgrims have the opportunity to participate in the liturgy. The guesthouse, simple and welcoming, offers accommodation for pilgrims inside the monastery, as well as an external guesthouse with private rooms available for reservation on their website.
Additionally, the monastery offers daily guided tours by monks or volunteers, who accompany visitors through the church, cloisters, and the 17th-century apothecary. In the Portería, you’ll also find a shop with products made by the monks, such as Samos honey, books, and Saint Benedict medals. Tour schedules are:
- Monday to Saturday: 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 16:30, 17:30, 18:30.
- Sundays and holidays: 12:45, 16:30, 17:30, 18:30.
Also, mass is held daily at 19:30, and on Sundays and holidays at 12:00 and 19:30.
Monastery of Samos
Practical tips for your stop
Before reaching the Monastery of Samos, it’s helpful to know some practical details to make the most of your visit. Here are a few tips to ensure your stop is as pleasant and comfortable as possible:
- Plan to arrive with time to explore the monastery calmly, and don’t forget to get your Credential stamped at such a special place.
- The interior maintains a constant temperature of around sixteen degrees, so bring something warm even in mid-August.
- There is no ATM in the village, so it’s best to bring cash from the previous stage (Triacastela). The nearest ATM is in Sarria, about 11 kilometers away.
- If you’re doing the Camino by bike, you’ll be asked to leave it in the old stable, now adapted as a covered garage.
- If you’re traveling with a pet, keep in mind that the monastery’s albergue doesn’t accept animals, but two nearby rural houses do, both within a kilometer.
Samos is well worth a stop on your Camino
Samos is well worth a stop on your Camino
Stopping in Samos isn’t just visiting a monastery; it’s experiencing spirituality, history, and natural beauty in the heart of the Camino. Here, time seems to slow down, the soul expands, and silence has its own voice. Whether you come to rest, pray, follow centuries of art and wisdom, or simply take a deep breath and look around, this place is a gem etched into the memory of every pilgrim.
So now you know: before reaching Sarria, if you’re unsure about going through San Xil or detouring to Samos, let yourself be guided by the murmur of the river and the whisper of the forest… and come discover a place that has been welcoming walkers for over a thousand years.
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