The Camino de Santiago is such a profound experience that it’s hard to put into words. For some, it’s a personal challenge; for others, an opportunity to disconnect. And for many, it’s also a culinary journey, as at the end of each stage, we’re welcomed by a small reward in the form of an appetizer — a taste of the local cuisine that makes every kilometer and every blister worth it.
And all of this happens in magical places where Galician gastronomy becomes an essential part of the journey, accompanying us from the first step to our arrival in Santiago. Among those culinary moments, one of our favorites is undoubtedly A Garnacha, a traditional eatery in Melide, right on the French Way — and without question, a must-stop.
View of Melide and its parish church
A stop among stops
Midway through the stage, between Palas de Rei and Arzúa, today we shine a spotlight on an essential stop: the eatery A Garnacha. Melide appears at around kilometer 53 of this final stretch of the French Way — just when your legs begin to feel the true weight of the backpack and your body craves a reward.
I vividly remember the first time I arrived in Melide. After crossing its streets, the Camino leads onto the main road and, almost without realizing it, there it is: A Garnacha, right on the path, taking up a good stretch of the façade with its spacious and bright interior. The first thing you see are the large windows open to the street, and behind them, the pulpeiros moving quickly around steaming pots.
It’s impossible to just walk past. The smell of freshly cooked octopus reaches you even before you get to the door. The guys cooking joke with pilgrims, invite you to come closer, and offer a small piece just taken from the pot. It’s a simple gesture, but after so many kilometers, that warm, tender bite feels almost magical. In that moment, you realize it’s not just a place to eat — it’s a little Camino ritual.
Whether your plan is to stop briefly and continue walking, or to end your stage in Melide, A Garnacha will make you consider sitting down for a while, sharing a table, and letting the Camino also be experienced through flavor.
Octopus can be enjoyed in many forms, even as a sandwich
Melide, kilometer 53 of irresistible cravings
Melide is one of those places on the French Way that many pilgrims associate directly with octopus — and some even start the stage already thinking about this stop. It’s not just about “grabbing a bite,” it’s about gifting yourself a moment of celebration in the middle of the effort. And in that emotional map of the Camino, A Garnacha holds a very special place.
Pulpería A Garnacha: tradition and pilgrim hospitality
With spacious facilities designed to welcome the many pilgrims passing through, A Garnacha has become an unmissable gathering spot during our passage through Melide. Inside, the buzz never stops: backpacks rest on chairs, walking sticks lean against walls, and tables overflow with shared plates.
Don’t just take our word for it — the more than 400 kilos of octopus served daily speak for themselves. There’s an almost choreographed rhythm between kitchen and dining room: the pulpeiros cut the octopus with scissors over wooden plates, season it with salt, oil and paprika, and the servers move briskly through the room with tireless smiles.
It’s no surprise that A Garnacha is such a success when you realize the owner is part of the third generation of a family of pulpeiros. Their secret is simple: top-quality products, cooked with care and served by charming staff. Since 2005, A Garnacha has continued to grow — and they always manage to make you feel at home. There’s no better reason to stop along the Camino.
Pulpería A Garnacha
The ritual of pulpo á feira (recipe included)
The house specialty is pulpo á feira, the traditional Galician way of preparing octopus — known in the rest of Spain as “pulpo a la gallega.” Sitting at A Garnacha and watching that steaming wooden plate arrive at your table is almost a rite: the red of the paprika, the shine of olive oil, the perfectly cut rounds of octopus… and that first bite that always tastes like victory.
Ingredients for pulpo á feira
- 1.5–2 kg of octopus (preferably previously frozen)
- Coarse salt
- Sweet and spicy paprika
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Water
- Optional: cachelos or boiled potatoes to accompany
How to prepare pulpo á feira
- If using fresh octopus, freeze it for at least 48 hours to tenderize. Fully thaw before cooking.
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Once boiling, “scare” the octopus: hold it by the head and dip it into the water and pull it out three times before fully submerging. This helps the skin hold together.
- Cook the octopus over medium heat for 35–45 minutes, depending on size. Check for doneness by piercing the thickest part of the tentacles with a skewer — it should go in with some resistance, but not be tough.
- Meanwhile, peel and cut the potatoes into thick slices (optional). Boil in a separate pot with water and salt until tender. These can be the base of the dish, known as cachelos.
- Once cooked, remove the octopus and let it rest a few minutes. Then cut it into slices about 1 cm thick using kitchen scissors.
- Serve on a wooden plate, preferably over a bed of boiled potatoes. Sprinkle with coarse salt, sweet and spicy paprika to taste, and generously drizzle with olive oil.
- Enjoy hot — ideally sharing with fellow pilgrims, as is tradition in the best Galician pulperías.
Typical hearty Galician octopus dish
More than just octopus: other delights to fuel your steps
Although pulpo á feira is the undisputed star, A Garnacha’s menu offers much more. In addition to this delicacy, they serve other exquisite regional dishes such as caldo gallego, empanada, carne ao caldeiro and oreja “a la Garnacha”. These are humble, traditional recipes — but with that homemade flavor that’s especially welcome after several days on the Camino.
To finish the meal, there’s nothing better than their homemade desserts and a shot of herbal liqueur to help with digestion. It’s the perfect ending to a break that nourishes both body and spirit.
Pilgrims at the Catasol River bridge leaving Melide, happy after eating octopus
Just like home: an unforgettable Camino stop
Leaving A Garnacha and putting your backpack back on feels a little bittersweet — part of you wants to stay a bit longer, keep listening to the hum of conversation and watch more dishes fly out of the kitchen. But at the same time, you return to the Camino feeling like you’ve lived one of those moments that you’ll remember with a smile.
Because A Garnacha isn’t just a place to eat octopus in Melide. It’s the smell that greets you before you step through the door, the bite they hand you from the window, the pulpeiros’ jokes, the shared tables with people you may never see again — but with whom you toasted for making it there.
If you’re walking the French Way from Sarria, be sure to remember this name: A Garnacha. When you reach Melide and see the steam rising from the pots along the path, you’ll understand why for so many pilgrims, this pulpería is more than just a meal — it’s one of those must-stops that we at Viajes Camino de Santiago highly recommend you don’t miss.
