Whoever dreams of doing the Camino de Santiago will sooner or later hear the name Oviedo. In the very heart of the historic center stands the Cathedral of San Salvador, a temple that has welcomed pilgrims, kings, merchants, and people from all over for over a thousand years, all heading toward the tomb of the Apostle.
Oviedo, a cozy and compact city, was for centuries the capital of the Asturian kingdom. Among palaces, squares, and arcaded houses, the silhouette of the Cathedral of San Salvador dominates the skyline and acts as a beacon. In the Middle Ages, the cathedral was a top-tier sanctuary, a place where people came to venerate relics and seek protection. For those arriving today with a backpack, this building serves a dual role: an impressive Gothic monument and a key point on the Camino de Santiago. Entering, leaving the backpack aside for a moment, visiting the Holy Chamber and stepping back out into the square is, for many pilgrims, a gesture that marks the true beginning or end of their pilgrimage, whether on the Camino Primitivo or the Camino del Salvador.
Cathedral of San Salvador of Oviedo
A bit of history
The story begins in the 8th century, when King Fruela I ordered the construction of a church dedicated to the Savior on this very site. A few years later, Alfonso II the Chaste moved the kingdom’s capital to Oviedo and decided to surround the church with a complex of palatial and religious buildings. Among them is the Holy Chamber, built to house relics arriving from different parts of the Christian world.
During the Middle Ages, this pre-Romanesque complex was the spiritual center of the Asturian kingdom. But from the 14th and 15th centuries onwards, the cathedral chapter decided to take things to the next level: they demolished most of the earlier buildings and erected a grand Gothic cathedral, tall and full of light, following the model of the great cathedrals of the time. Most of the Gothic building was constructed during the 14th and 15th centuries, but the main façade and the slender tower were completed in the 16th century, still maintaining the Gothic style even though the Renaissance was already fashionable elsewhere. Later, Baroque chapels were added, spaces were renovated, and altarpieces enriched, making today’s cathedral a harmonious blend of different eras.
In the 20th century it suffered a devastating blow: the Holy Chamber was blown up in 1934. However, it was faithfully rebuilt, reusing original materials, and reconsecrated in the 1940s. Thanks to this, today’s visitors can still enter a space that, despite the historical wound, retains its ancient atmosphere.
Alfonso II the Chaste, one of the key figures in the history of Oviedo
What is the cathedral like inside and out?
From the outside, the first thing that stands out is the great Gothic tower visible from many parts of Oviedo. It almost works like a compass: if you see the tower, you know where the Savior is. The façade, with its three portals, already hints at the internal structure of three naves and features sculptures of kings and religious scenes that recall the building’s royal and devotional origins.
Inside, the floor plan is Latin cross-shaped. The central nave is tall and covered by ribbed vaults—those stone structures with intersecting ribs that distribute weight and create a feeling of lightness. The pillars, made up of multiple engaged shafts, rise upward and guide you toward the main altar. Along the naves, chapels from different periods open up, making the visit a journey through time.
The cloister, of Gothic layout, is a perfect place to slow down. Surrounded by pointed arches and ancient tombs, it invites you to walk slowly, read inscriptions, and let the city’s noise stay outside the walls.
Cathedral of Oviedo
The Holy Chamber
The Holy Chamber is the most symbolic heart of the complex. It was born as a palatine chapel to safeguard relics and is now part of the UNESCO World Heritage. Inside, key pieces such as the Cross of the Angels, the Victory Cross, and the Holy Ark are kept, along with other relics of deep tradition. Beyond personal devotion, entering the Holy Chamber is like stepping into a time capsule: the scale is more intimate, the stone speaks of centuries of history, and the contrast with the grand Gothic space of the cathedral makes the experience very intense.
Chapels, choir, and altarpiece
As you walk through the naves, you’ll find chapels dedicated to various saints, well-preserved images, and altarpieces that depict biblical scenes. The choir, located in the center, and the main altarpiece form a powerful visual axis. The altarpiece, with its carved and gilded scenes, serves as a great visual summary of the life of Christ and the Christian faith.
A costumed pilgrim in front of the Cathedral of Oviedo
Oviedo and the Camino Primitivo
The Camino Primitivo links the Cathedral of San Salvador with Santiago de Compostela and is considered the oldest Jacobean route. Tradition speaks of King Alfonso II as the first pilgrim of the Camino de Santiago, traveling from Oviedo to the newly discovered tomb of the Apostle in Compostela. Although historical details are nuanced, the central idea is clear: one of the first major routes to Santiago was initiated here.
Today, starting the Camino Primitivo in Oviedo carries strong symbolic weight. Many pilgrims do the same: they arrive in the city, visit the cathedral, get their pilgrim passport stamped, spend time in the Holy Chamber or the cloister, and only then set out in search of the first yellow arrows leading to the Asturian mountains.
The Camino del Salvador, from León to Oviedo
The Camino del Salvador connects León with Oviedo, crossing the Cantabrian Mountains. It was born because many pilgrims coming via the Camino Francés wanted to detour to venerate the relics of the Savior before continuing toward Santiago. From there comes the famous Jacobean saying: “He who goes to Santiago and not to the Savior, visits the servant and forgets the Lord.”
Today, no one is obliged to make that detour, but the underlying message remains compelling: beyond the final goal in Santiago, there are other great sanctuaries along the way that are well worth visiting. Many walkers link the Camino del Salvador and the Camino Primitivo, creating a kind of grand spiritual northern route: León – Oviedo – Santiago.
That combination makes the Cathedral of Oviedo a bridge between two experiences: that of the great historical route of the Camino Francés and that of the wilder, quieter trails of the north. Arriving at the Savior after crossing mountain passes, fogs, and narrow valleys gives the entrance into the city a very special flavor.
The yellow arrow is universal on the Jacobean routes, and you’ll find it on the Camino del Salvador too
Oviedo, a zero point for your Camino story
Stepping out of the cathedral and into the light of the square is a small rite of passage. The tower of the Savior is behind you, the streets of the old town open before you, and somewhere, a yellow arrow will point the way. At that moment, Oviedo stops being just a cultural visit and becomes a key date in your personal Camino story.
The cathedral will have been many things to you at once: a refuge, a museum, a relic archive, a place of silence, a symbol of an ancient kingdom, and above all, the setting for the moment when you tell yourself “I’m moving forward.” Every step you take afterward—on the Camino Primitivo or the Camino del Salvador linking with other routes—will carry something of this stone, this light, and this name: San Salvador.
If you are planning your route or dreaming of it, it’s worth making room to visit this place. Letting the Cathedral of Oviedo be your zero point is a beautiful way to link your own journey with the long chain of pilgrims who, before you, also passed through here, paused before the Savior… and then continued walking toward Santiago.
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