Discover the Baztanés Way

The entry about the Baztán Way describes this Jacobean route in the Baztán valley, with its rural landscape, cultural heritage, and historical connections to Santiago, offering practical information about stages, distance, difficulties, and tips for planning the pilgrimage and enjoying a less traveled itinerary.

The Baztan Way or Camino de Santiago de Baztán is a lesser-known Jacobean route among most of the pilgrim community, although equally (if not more) fascinating than any other route. With justification and historical tradition, this Camino de Santiago route is an alternative crossing of the Pyrenees for any pilgrim coming from France, connecting the French city of Bayonne with Arre and Pamplona over nearly 110 kilometers. Let us learn a little more about this beautiful route that runs through the Baztan Valley, from which it takes its name, its green fields, and its very interesting heritage landmarks.

The Baztan Way in history

As we know, there are as many paths as there are origins of pilgrims. In this case, the Baztan Way emerged as a link between two origins of walkers: in one case, it gathered pilgrims arriving by boat in Bayonne from Northern Europe, and in another, those diverted from the Vía Turonense, which began in Paris; we say diverted because the Turonense was a route that crossed the Pyrenees via San Jean Pied-de-Port, where they joined the classic stages of the French Way, but many pilgrims preferred to cross the border through a gentler and less demanding pass via the mountain ports of Otsondo and Belate.

Thus, this route would reach the French Way in Arre, just 5 kilometers from Pamplona, passing through towns such as Urdazubi and Belate, among many others, thereby establishing itself as a more accessible crossing through the western Pyrenees.

The stages of the Baztan Way

As always, each person can create their own division of stages, but following the official website of Tourism for the municipality of Baztán, we can establish the division that we propose below.

Stage 1: Bayonne – Ustaritz, 14.3 km

The adventure begins at the gothic cathedral of Bayonne, where you can stamp your pilgrim passport. We head towards rue d'Espagne, whose name is proof of the correct direction. We cross the La Nive river, which we will keep on our left. We follow the signage, which for now will lead us towards Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. We follow the meanders of the river and will pass by an equestrian center where we will find some services, but it will be the last one until we reach the end of the stage. We continue until we reach Portuberria, near Villefranque, and we will pass by Nôtre Dame de la Nive, near Herauritz. Already on Chemin Leihorrondo, we will be at the gates of Ustaritz, our end of the stage, where you will find all the services.

Stage 2: Ustaritz – Urdazubi / Urdax, 21.2 km

In this stage, we will leave the course of the La Nive river and France, to enter Spain, enjoying the last kilometers of the French region of Aquitaine. You will walk through the green meadows where the famous peppers of the village of Espelette are grown to reach Souraide, with a rich Jacobean tradition that will mark the beginning of the ascent to Pinodieta and its mountain Erebi. You enter Spain through Dantxarinea, where we will have all the services (we recommend stocking up, as for example in Urdax there are no ATMs). We continue and already in Urdax we can rest like a true medieval pilgrim in the shelter of the Premonstratensian monastery.

Stage 3: Urdazubi / Urdax – Elizondo, 18.8 km

You will access the great municipality of Baztán by ascending the Otsondo pass, where it is easy to find oneself enveloped in mist. You will descend the valley towards Amaiur / Maya, continuing along ancient pathways and bridges to reach the hermitage of Santiago in Urrasun. We will pass through Ordoki and Arizkun, which features a beautiful 18th-century convent. In the final stretch, you will pass through Bergara and walk parallel to the Baztán river. In Elbete, at the gates of the end of the stage, there was a hospital for travelers, the poor, and pilgrims. You will continue on to Elizondo, which offers all services, a great devotion to the Camino, and… a paradise for chocolate lovers!

Stage 4: Elizondo – Berroeta, 9.7 km

Indeed, a very short stage, but with a lot of ascent. You will pass through Lekaroz and Irurita, the second most populated town in Baztán, featuring magnificent civil architecture and various services. Step by step, the path ascends to higher altitudes, reaching Zigaurre and its hermitage of San Andrés. Afterwards, you will be able to enjoy fascinating panoramas at the viewpoint of the Baztán valley and then you will access Ziga, where the Herrerian parish church of San Lorenzo, nicknamed “The Cathedral” by locals, stands out. The last steps will take us to Aniz, to finally rest in Berroeta.

Stage 5: Berroeta – Olagüe, 20.4 km

You will descend from Berroeta towards Almandoz, where you will arrive by ascending and which has a restaurant in the Galtzaga palace, dating back to the 18th century. You will continue ascending to reach Venta San Blas, where in its inn you will feel the spirit of the ancient walkers. You will keep ascending towards Mount Larrondo and Mount Arluz, to reach the maximum altitude of almost 900 meters above sea level at Alto de Belate, where you can visit the hermitage of Santiago. You will continue to reach Lantz, which offers various services. There are only five kilometers left to reach Olagüe, where you can finally rest.

Stage 6: Olagüe – Pamplona, 25 km

Leaving Olagüe, you will head towards Leazkue, with its church of the Ascension. Descending, you will arrive at Etulain, Burutain, and Ostiz, which has a bar and various 16th-century houses such as Casa Iriartea and Casa Gartxotena. Passing through valleys and rivers, more towns await, such as Olaiz and Sorauren, the latter having a restaurant. You will continue along the river park of the Ultzama River and shortly after, you will see the industrial estate of Ezcabarte, finally arriving at Arre and its medieval bridge of Trinidad, where you will connect with the pilgrims of the French Way and reach the beautiful Pamplona. Of course, you will have all the services, monuments, and charm of the beautiful Navarre capital at your disposal.

Things to consider

The Urdax-Baztan Way, as it is also known, is only recommended for walkers in good physical shape and accustomed to medium mountain paths. It is not particularly complicated or demanding, but there are rocky and very technical trails, and they can become muddy easily in the rain (highly recommended are gaiters!). If you have completed the Primitive Way, it is very similar to it in its early mountain stages.

In general, it is well marked, although not so much after Olagüe. In France, small yellow stickers indicate discreet but adequate signage. Once in Spain, the stickers turn into paint with the already well-known yellow arrows.

During the route, you will find towns at the end of each stage with shelters and services, although at intermediate points during the day, you may not find bars and other services, so we recommend that you carry enough water and food.

In recent years, the number of pilgrims traversing it has been increasing, although its figures do not reach those of the official routes. Nevertheless, its exceptional natural and cultural heritage, its signage, its shelters, and its gastronomy make this path worthy of being walked.

Walking through “Navarre's Switzerland”

Thus, some qualify this Baztán Valley, with a mix of meadows, beech forests, oak groves, rivers, and countless monuments, in addition to a lot of chocolate. Forgotten for many years, the Baztan Way has risen from its ashes like a phoenix, perhaps due to its gentle and delightful route and the unusual beauty it offers to the pilgrim. A valley and a path with all the essence of the Camino de Santiago and the magic of the Middle Ages, and on its trails, you must be attentive, for tradition places witches and agotes in these parts, who were said to smell very bad and where they stepped barefoot, the grass would never grow again.

Be attentive on your way, pilgrim!