French Way from Roncesvalles to Santiago de Compostela

Stages

• day 1

  Arrival at Roncesvalles
• day 2

  Stage 1. Roncesvalles - Zubiri (21.4 km)

  You leave Roncesvalles with a touch of regret and enter the dense Robledal de las Brujas (Witches' Oak Grove), setting for famous covens. You pass through Burguete and Espinal, the landscape that captivated Hemingway, and climb the Mezkiritz and Erro passes, among pines, birches and oaks, with magnificent views. A long descent brings you to the Puente de la Rabia and Zubiri. Take care on the descent if it rains.

• day 3

  Stage 2. Zubiri - Pamplona (20.4 km)

  You leave Zubiri via the iconic Puente de la Rabia and follow the Arga river past medieval bridges and villages steeped in pilgrim tradition, like Larrasoaña. You pass through Villava, birthplace of Miguel Induráin, and the beautiful Trinidad de Arre before crossing the Puente de la Magdalena and entering the old town of Pamplona, alongside its walls.

• day 4

  Stage 3. Pamplona - Puente la Reina (23.9 km)

  You leave Pamplona and face the dreaded climb to the Alto del Perdón, one of the most photographed spots on the Camino, with its row of iron pilgrims battered by the wind: "where the path of the wind crosses that of the stars." After the descent, you can detour to the Romanesque jewel of Santa María de Eunate before reaching Puente la Reina and its beautiful medieval bridge.

• day 5

  Stage 4. Puente la Reina - Estella (21.6 km)

  From Puente la Reina you cross the Arga and climb to Mañeru, through vineyards and olive groves, up to Cirauqui, with its Roman road and bridge. You pass by the Salado river —the "river of death" from old pilgrim legends— and, between paths and fields, reach Villatuerta and its San Miguel hermitage. The day ends in Estella, a beautiful town known as the "Toledo of the north."

• day 6

  Stage 5. Estella - Los Arcos (21.3 km)

  Just after leaving Estella you reach one of the great landmarks of the Camino: the Bodegas Irache and its Fuente del Vino, where two taps flow, one with water and one with wine. After the ritual, you climb through Azqueta —where the beloved Pablito has spent years handing out walking sticks to pilgrims— and Villamayor de Monjardín, through farmland, up to Los Arcos and its imposing church of Santa María.

• day 7

  Stage 6. Los Arcos - Logroño (27.6 km)

  You leave Los Arcos among vineyards and cereal fields towards Sansol and Torres del Río, with its octagonal Romanesque church of the Holy Sepulchre. After Viana, the last town in Navarre, the Camino drops towards the Ebro and enters La Rioja on its way to Logroño. Logroño is synonymous with wine and good food. Calle del Laurel is packed with dozens of bars, each with its own speciality: mushrooms, patatas bravas, ham zapatillas… always with a glass of Rioja in hand. Before that, it's worth strolling the old town, with the co-cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda and the church of Santiago el Real.

• day 8

  Stage 7. Logroño - Nájera (29 km)

  You leave Logroño through Plaza de Santiago and soon enter the lovely Parque de la Grajera, by the reservoir, among squirrels and swans. You climb the Alto de la Grajera —with its Osborne bull— and reach Navarrete, once a border of the kingdom. Between vineyards and the legendary Poyo de Roldán, you descend to the Najerilla river and the historic town of Nájera.

• day 9

  Stage 8. Nájera - Santo Domingo de la Calzada (20.7 km)

  You leave Nájera and its monastery of Santa María la Real and cross Azofra —stock up, since kilometres without services lie ahead. You can detour to the monasteries of Suso and Yuso in San Millán de la Cogolla, cradle of the Spanish language and a World Heritage Site. Through fields of grain you reach Santo Domingo de la Calzada, home of the famous legend of the rooster and the hen.

• day 10

  Stage 9. Santo Domingo de la Calzada - Belorado (22 km)

  Set off early from Santo Domingo de la Calzada, crossing the Oja river. You pass through Grañón, the last village in La Rioja, and cross into Castilla y León, which will keep you company for the next two weeks. Through fields of grain and poplars along the streams, you cross Redecilla del Camino, Viloria de Rioja —birthplace of Santo Domingo— and the curious Villamayor del Río, the "village of the three lies," on to Belorado.

• day 11

  Stage 10. Belorado - San Juan de Ortega (23.9 km)

  From Belorado you advance through villages like Tosantos, with its hermitage carved into the rock, to Villafranca Montes de Oca. There the day changes: the dreaded crossing of the Montes de Oca awaits, once a refuge for bandits, climbing to the Alto de la Pedraja through oak groves. After a long descent you reach San Juan de Ortega and its monastery.

• day 12

  Stage 11. San Juan de Ortega - Burgos (25.8 km)

  You leave San Juan de Ortega among oak and pine woods towards Agés and Atapuerca, home of the famous archaeological sites, and cross the sierra by the Matagrande cross, with Burgos already in sight. The way into the city crosses a long industrial area: the variant through Castañares, by the river, is more pleasant. Burgos boasts one of the most impressive Gothic cathedrals in Europe, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which holds the tomb of El Cid. The Paseo del Espolón along the Arlanzón river, the Arco de Santa María and the Museum of Human Evolution, with the finds from Atapuerca, complete the visit. And for dinner, morcilla.

• day 13

  Stage 12. Burgos - Hornillos del Camino (21 km)

  Set off early from Burgos to avoid the blazing sun of the meseta. You leave the cathedral behind, pass by the Monasterio de las Huelgas and cross Tardajos and Rabé de las Calzadas —"from Rabé to Tardajos, you won't be short of hard work"—. Then nine kilometres through shadeless grain fields to Hornillos del Camino, a one-street village crowned by its church, with a gorgeous golden sunset. Carry plenty of water.

• day 14

  Stage 13. Hornillos del Camino - Castrojeriz (19.9 km)

  Another day across the golden sea of the meseta, through grain fields with almost no shade. From Hornillos you reach Hontanas, hidden from view until the last moment, and the evocative ruins of the Convento de San Antón, with its arches spanning the Camino. The day ends in Castrojeriz, at the foot of its castle, where sunset turns the fields to gold. Carry water and sun protection.

• day 15

  Stage 14. Castrojeriz - Frómista (24.7 km)

  Right after leaving Castrojeriz you face the day's challenge: the steep climb to the Alto de Mostelares, with an immense view of the meseta from the top. Then flat terrain to the Fitero bridge over the Pisuerga, an old border between Castile and Aragón. Between Itero de la Vega and Boadilla, with barely any shade, you reach Frómista, beside the historic Canal de Castilla.

• day 16

  Stage 15. Frómista - Carrión de los Condes (18.8 km)

  A comfortable, short stage, running almost the whole way alongside the road and the canal. From Frómista you pass through Población de Campos and Revenga —with its coats-of-arms houses where Charles V once slept— to Villalcázar de Sirga, with its spectacular Templar church of Santa María la Blanca. One last flat stretch leaves you in Carrión de los Condes, rich in heritage and services.

• day 17

  Stage 16. Carrión de los Condes - Sahagún (37 km)

  The plains and grain fields remain the stars of the show. Watch out, because today you face the longest stretch of the Camino without services: prepare water and food before setting off. You pass through pilgrim villages like Calzadilla de la Cueza, Ledigos and Terradillos de los Templarios, their adobe dovecotes and Mudéjar architecture enlivening the way to Sahagún.

• day 18

  Stage 17. Sahagún - El Burgo Ranero (23.2 km)

  Before leaving Sahagún, the halfway point of the Camino Francés, you can pick up the Carta Peregrina, the "half Compostela" certifying you've already covered half the way, and take in its rich Mudéjar heritage (San Lorenzo, San Tirso). You cross the Cea over the Canto bridge and, along the path running parallel to the N-120, reach Bercianos del Real Camino. A final straight stretch across the plateau brings you to El Burgo Ranero, the end of the stage.

• day 19

  Stage 18. El Burgo Ranero - Mansilla de las Mulas (18 km)

  A flat, simple stage of barely 18 kilometres. After a good stretch across the straight meseta you'll find a wooded area, perfect for a rest in the shade. Shortly after you reach Reliegos and, with no chance of getting lost, Mansilla de las Mulas, a walled town on the banks of the Esla and the last stop before León.

• day 20

  Stage 19. Mansilla de las Mulas - León (18.5 km)

  A short stage with little scenery: from Mansilla de las Mulas you pass through Puente Villarente, over the river Porma, and climb to the Alto del Portillo, where the city comes into view. The last stretch through industrial areas and traffic feels long, but the destination is worth it. León is one of the great cities of the Camino. Its Gothic cathedral, with 1,800 square metres of stained glass, leaves everyone speechless; nearby stand the Basílica de San Isidoro with its Romanesque frescoes, and Gaudí's Casa Botines. As evening falls, it's time for the Barrio Húmedo, where every glass of wine still comes with a free tapa.

• day 21

  Stage 20. León - Villadangos del Páramo (20.4 km)

  You leave León by the Parador de San Marcos, crossing urban and industrial areas to the Virgen del Camino and its sanctuary, a good first stop. Here the Camino splits in two; following the original route through Villadangos, you advance along stretches beside the N-120 and dirt tracks to Villadangos del Páramo, end of stage. A transitional day, more urban than rural.

• day 22

  Stage 21. Villadangos del Páramo - Astorga (27.9 km)

  You leave Villadangos del Páramo beside the N-120 to San Martín del Camino and reach Hospital de Órbigo, with one of the longest medieval bridges on the Camino, scene of the Paso Honroso. Then, among fields and oaks, you come to the cross of Santo Toribio, with Astorga at your feet, and descend through San Justo de la Vega to the city. Astorga is a small city with two gems side by side: the Cathedral of Santa María and Gaudí's Episcopal Palace, one of the architect's few buildings outside Catalonia. Roman remains are scattered across the centre too, along with an unbeatable sweet tradition: mantecadas and chocolate, complete with its own museum.

• day 23

  Stage 22. Astorga - Rabanal del Camino (20.2 km)

  A short, comfortable stage through the Maragatería. You leave lovely Astorga and, if you feel like it, detour to Castrillo de los Polvazares, a jewel of Maragato architecture declared a Historic Site. Between Santa Catalina de Somoza and El Ganso, with their old muleteer-flavoured houses, and already among oaks and pines, you reach Rabanal del Camino, end of stage in the old Codex Calixtinus.

• day 24

  Stage 23. Rabanal del Camino - Molinaseca (24.7 km)

  A high-mountain stage with an unforgettable landmark: the Cruz de Ferro, where tradition calls for leaving a stone brought from home. You pass through Foncebadón and the solitary Manjarín, amid stunning views of the Bierzo mountains. Then, be careful: one of the steepest descents of the entire Camino arrives, stony and unbroken, through El Acebo and chestnut woods down to Molinaseca. Take your time.

• day 25

  Stage 24. Molinaseca - Villafranca del Bierzo (31.9 km)

  From Molinaseca you soon reach Ponferrada, capital of the Bierzo, where you can't miss its magnificent Castillo de los Templarios. You bid farewell to the Castilian fields and enter wine country, passing through Camponaraya and Cacabelos, on to Villafranca del Bierzo: enjoy its Puerta del Perdón, the church of Santiago, and even a dip at its river beach.

• day 26

  Stage 25. Villafranca del Bierzo - O Cebreiro (27.8 km)

  The queen stage: you leave Villafranca del Bierzo along the Valcarce valley, through Pereje, Trabadelo and Vega de Valcarce, and at Las Herrerías the climb begins, hard and relentless, via La Faba and Laguna de Castilla until you enter Galicia. O Cebreiro is a magical village at 1,300 metres, with cobbled streets and stone-and-thatch pallozas preserved since pre-Roman times. Its church of Santa María la Real, the oldest on the Camino Francés, holds the legend of the Holy Grail. On a clear day, the views over the Galician valleys are unforgettable.

• day 27

  Stage 26. O Cebreiro - Triacastela (20.8 km)

  The first stage fully in Galicia. You leave O Cebreiro gaining altitude, with views of the Navia valley and the Ancares to the north and the Serra do Courel to the south. You crest the Alto de San Roque, with its statue of the pilgrim battling the wind, and the Alto do Poio (1,337 m), the highest point of the Camino in Galicia. Then a long descent through hamlets and chestnut groves down to Triacastela.

• day 28

  Stage 27. Triacastela - Sarria (17.9 km)

  From Triacastela you choose between two routes: via San Xil, shorter and through chestnut woods, or via the Benedictine monastery of Samos, one of the oldest in Spain, a little longer. Both meet again before Sarria. Sarria is the most pilgrim-filled town on the French Way: everyone passes through here, because from this point you cover the 100 kilometres needed to earn the Compostela. It is worth walking up the Rúa Maior to the church of Santa Mariña, taking a look at the remains of the castle and enjoying a good dinner without rushing.

• day 29

  Stage 28. Sarria - Portomarín (22 km)

  You say goodbye to Sarria along Rúa Maior and, after the viewpoint by the stone cross, head down to the medieval bridge of Áspera. Between meadows, stone walls and woodland you pass through Barbadelo and its Romanesque church, reaching Morgade and its famous 100 km marker. The path continues through hamlets to Portomarín: cross its long bridge and climb the staircase in one go… they say stopping brings bad luck!

• day 30

  Stage 29. Portomarín - Palas de Rei (25 km)

  You leave Portomarín, crossing the Miño, and climb through hamlets to Castromaior, with its impressive Celtic hillfort that's worth the short detour. You crest the Ligonde ridge, with fine views, passing the famous Os Lameiros wayside cross (1679) and the Vilar de Donas church, once home to the Knights of Santiago. Through more hamlets you reach Palas de Rei, the end of the stage.

• day 31

  Stage 30. Palas de Rei - Arzúa (29 km)

  The longest stage of the Camino Francés in Galicia (29 km), but also one of the prettiest: take it slow. Now in the province of A Coruña, dirt tracks, lush woodland and medieval bridges guide your steps. A must-stop in Melide, the capital of pulpo á feira. And before Arzúa, an oasis: Ribadiso de Abaixo, where you can take a dip in the river if the weather allows.

• day 32

  Stage 31. Arzúa - O Pedrouzo (20 km)

  A pleasant walk over comfortable, flat terrain, with plenty of bars and restaurants to take it easy. You alternate between hamlets and pine and eucalyptus woods, with Salceda marking the halfway point of the day, a good spot to recharge. From there, only a few quiet final kilometres remain to O Pedrouzo. You can already smell Santiago.

• day 33

  Stage 32. O Pedrouzo - Santiago de Compostela (19 km)

  Last stage! The earlier you set off, the sooner you'll set foot in Compostela. The magic moment arrives at Monte do Gozo, when you catch your first glimpse of the cathedral towers: a perfect view to savour the final kilometres. Shortly after, your triumphant arrival at Plaza del Obradoiro. You've completed your Camino Francés and you're in Santiago!

• day 34

  End of the trip

  After your last night, you check out of your accommodation and your trip comes to an end.