French Way from Roncesvalles to Santiago de Compostela

Stages

• day 1

  Arrival at Roncesvalles
• day 2

  Stage 1. Roncesvalles - Zubiri (21.4 km)

  You leave Roncesvalles with a touch of regret and enter the dense Robledal de las Brujas (Witches' Oak Grove), setting for famous covens. You pass through Burguete and Espinal, the landscape that captivated Hemingway, and climb the Mezkiritz and Erro passes, among pines, birches and oaks, with magnificent views. A long descent brings you to the Puente de la Rabia and Zubiri. Take care on the descent if it rains.

• day 3

  Stage 2. Zubiri - Pamplona (20.4 km)

  You leave Zubiri via the iconic Puente de la Rabia and follow the Arga river past medieval bridges and villages steeped in pilgrim tradition, like Larrasoaña. You pass through Villava, birthplace of Miguel Induráin, and the beautiful Trinidad de Arre before crossing the Puente de la Magdalena and entering the old town of Pamplona, alongside its walls.

• day 4

  Stage 3. Pamplona - Puente la Reina (23.9 km)

  You leave Pamplona and face the dreaded climb to the Alto del Perdón, one of the most photographed spots on the Camino, with its row of iron pilgrims battered by the wind: "where the path of the wind crosses that of the stars." After the descent, you can detour to the Romanesque jewel of Santa María de Eunate before reaching Puente la Reina and its beautiful medieval bridge.

• day 5

  Stage 4. Puente la Reina - Estella (21.6 km)

  From Puente la Reina you cross the Arga and climb to Mañeru, through vineyards and olive groves, up to Cirauqui, with its Roman road and bridge. You pass by the Salado river —the "river of death" from old pilgrim legends— and, between paths and fields, reach Villatuerta and its San Miguel hermitage. The day ends in Estella, a beautiful town known as the "Toledo of the north."

• day 6

  Stage 5. Estella - Los Arcos (21.3 km)

  Just after leaving Estella you reach one of the great landmarks of the Camino: the Bodegas Irache and its Fuente del Vino, where two taps flow, one with water and one with wine. After the ritual, you climb through Azqueta —where the beloved Pablito has spent years handing out walking sticks to pilgrims— and Villamayor de Monjardín, through farmland, up to Los Arcos and its imposing church of Santa María.

• day 7

  Stage 6. Los Arcos - Logroño (27.6 km)

  From Los Arcos you pass through Sansol and Torres del Río, famous for its octagonal church of the Santo Sepulcro, which may once have served as a beacon for pilgrims. Between rolling dips and the odd ravine you reach Viana, with its beautiful Gothic church. Near Logroño you pass Felisa's house, a legendary hospitalera whose daughter carries on her welcome today, before crossing the Ebro and entering Logroño.

• day 8

  Stage 7. Logroño - Nájera (29 km)

  You leave Logroño through Plaza de Santiago and soon enter the lovely Parque de la Grajera, by the reservoir, among squirrels and swans. You climb the Alto de la Grajera —with its Osborne bull— and reach Navarrete, once a border of the kingdom. Between vineyards and the legendary Poyo de Roldán, you descend to the Najerilla river and the historic town of Nájera.

• day 9

  Stage 8. Nájera - Santo Domingo de la Calzada (20.7 km)

  You leave Nájera and its monastery of Santa María la Real and cross Azofra —stock up, since kilometres without services lie ahead. You can detour to the monasteries of Suso and Yuso in San Millán de la Cogolla, cradle of the Spanish language and a World Heritage Site. Through fields of grain you reach Santo Domingo de la Calzada, home of the famous legend of the rooster and the hen.

• day 10

  Stage 9. Santo Domingo de la Calzada - Belorado (22 km)

  Set off early from Santo Domingo de la Calzada, crossing the Oja river. You pass through Grañón, the last village in La Rioja, and cross into Castilla y León, which will keep you company for the next two weeks. Through fields of grain and poplars along the streams, you cross Redecilla del Camino, Viloria de Rioja —birthplace of Santo Domingo— and the curious Villamayor del Río, the "village of the three lies," on to Belorado.

• day 11

  Stage 10. Belorado - San Juan de Ortega (23.9 km)

  From Belorado you advance through villages like Tosantos, with its hermitage carved into the rock, to Villafranca Montes de Oca. There the day changes: the dreaded crossing of the Montes de Oca awaits, once a refuge for bandits, climbing to the Alto de la Pedraja through oak groves. After a long descent you reach San Juan de Ortega and its monastery.

• day 12

  Stage 11. San Juan de Ortega - Burgos (25.8 km)

  From San Juan de Ortega you advance through pine forests to Atapuerca, whose famous archaeological site you can visit. You climb the Sierra de Atapuerca —loose ground but wide views, with Burgos already visible in the distance— and descend toward the city. And you reach Burgos, with its imposing Gothic cathedral, a World Heritage Site, and the tomb of El Cid Campeador.

• day 13

  Stage 12. Burgos - Hornillos del Camino (21 km)

  Set off early from Burgos to avoid the blazing sun of the meseta. You leave the cathedral behind, pass by the Monasterio de las Huelgas and cross Tardajos and Rabé de las Calzadas —"from Rabé to Tardajos, you won't be short of hard work"—. Then nine kilometres through shadeless grain fields to Hornillos del Camino, a one-street village crowned by its church, with a gorgeous golden sunset. Carry plenty of water.

• day 14

  Stage 13. Hornillos del Camino - Castrojeriz (19.9 km)

  Another day across the golden sea of the meseta, through grain fields with almost no shade. From Hornillos you reach Hontanas, hidden from view until the last moment, and the evocative ruins of the Convento de San Antón, with its arches spanning the Camino. The day ends in Castrojeriz, at the foot of its castle, where sunset turns the fields to gold. Carry water and sun protection.

• day 15

  Stage 14. Castrojeriz - Frómista (24.7 km)

  Right after leaving Castrojeriz you face the day's challenge: the steep climb to the Alto de Mostelares, with an immense view of the meseta from the top. Then flat terrain to the Fitero bridge over the Pisuerga, an old border between Castile and Aragón. Between Itero de la Vega and Boadilla, with barely any shade, you reach Frómista, beside the historic Canal de Castilla.

• day 16

  Stage 15. Frómista - Carrión de los Condes (18.8 km)

  A comfortable, short stage, running almost the whole way alongside the road and the canal. From Frómista you pass through Población de Campos and Revenga —with its coats-of-arms houses where Charles V once slept— to Villalcázar de Sirga, with its spectacular Templar church of Santa María la Blanca. One last flat stretch leaves you in Carrión de los Condes, rich in heritage and services.

• day 17

  Stage 16. Carrión de los Condes - Sahagún (37 km)

  The plains and grain fields remain the stars of the show. Watch out, because today you face the longest stretch of the Camino without services: prepare water and food before setting off. You pass through pilgrim villages like Calzadilla de la Cueza, Ledigos and Terradillos de los Templarios, their adobe dovecotes and Mudéjar architecture enlivening the way to Sahagún.

• day 18

  Stage 17. Sahagún - El Burgo Ranero (23.2 km)

  Through grain fields you reach Sahagún, an essential stop and the halfway point of the Camino Francés: here you can pick up the Carta Peregrina, the "half Compostela" certifying you've already covered half the way, along with its rich Mudéjar heritage (San Lorenzo, San Tirso). Then, along the path running parallel to the N-120, you continue to Bercianos del Real Camino, end of stage with all services.

• day 19

  Stage 18. El Burgo Ranero - Mansilla de las Mulas (18 km)

  A flat, simple stage of barely 18 kilometres. After a good stretch across the straight meseta you'll find a wooded area, perfect for a rest in the shade. Shortly after you reach Reliegos and, with no chance of getting lost, Mansilla de las Mulas, a walled town on the banks of the Esla and the last stop before León.

• day 20

  Stage 19. Mansilla de las Mulas - León (18.5 km)

  The last stage before the big city. You leave Mansilla de las Mulas, crossing its bridge over the Esla, and advance —a bit unglamorous, between road and industry— through Puente Villarente and the Alto del Portillo, with the rooftops of León already in sight. The reward is worth it: entering León, with its Gothic cathedral and dazzling stained-glass windows waiting for you.

• day 21

  Stage 20. León - Villadangos del Páramo (20.4 km)

  You leave León by the Parador de San Marcos, crossing urban and industrial areas to the Virgen del Camino and its sanctuary, a good first stop. Here the Camino splits in two; following the original route through Villadangos, you advance along stretches beside the N-120 and dirt tracks to Villadangos del Páramo, end of stage. A transitional day, more urban than rural.

• day 22

  Stage 21. Villadangos del Páramo - Astorga (27.9 km)

  From Villadangos del Páramo, for the last time alongside the N-120, you reach the impressive bridge of Hospital de Órbigo, setting of the legendary Paso Honroso. Choose the Villares variant —prettier— which passes through Santibáñez, with its giant corn maze, and the generous Casa de los Dioses. From the Santo Toribio cross you can already make out Astorga and its cathedral. End of stage.

• day 23

  Stage 22. Astorga - Rabanal del Camino (20.2 km)

  A short, comfortable stage through the Maragatería. You leave lovely Astorga and, if you feel like it, detour to Castrillo de los Polvazares, a jewel of Maragato architecture declared a Historic Site. Between Santa Catalina de Somoza and El Ganso, with their old muleteer-flavoured houses, and already among oaks and pines, you reach Rabanal del Camino, end of stage in the old Codex Calixtinus.

• day 24

  Stage 23. Rabanal del Camino - Molinaseca (24.7 km)

  A high-mountain stage with an unforgettable landmark: the Cruz de Ferro, where tradition calls for leaving a stone brought from home. You pass through Foncebadón and the solitary Manjarín, amid stunning views of the Bierzo mountains. Then, be careful: one of the steepest descents of the entire Camino arrives, stony and unbroken, through El Acebo and chestnut woods down to Molinaseca. Take your time.

• day 25

  Stage 24. Molinaseca - Villafranca del Bierzo (31.9 km)

  From Molinaseca you soon reach Ponferrada, capital of the Bierzo, where you can't miss its magnificent Castillo de los Templarios. You bid farewell to the Castilian fields and enter wine country, passing through Camponaraya and Cacabelos, on to Villafranca del Bierzo: enjoy its Puerta del Perdón, the church of Santiago, and even a dip at its river beach.

• day 26

  Stage 25. Villafranca del Bierzo - O Cebreiro (27.8 km)

  A great mountain stage. From Villafranca del Bierzo you follow the Valcarce valley, past viaducts and villages like Vega de Valcarce and Las Herrerías, until the steep climb begins through La Faba and Laguna de Castilla. You finally cross into Galicia —152 km left to Santiago— and crest at O Cebreiro, a magical village of pallozas and cobbled streets steeped in legend.

• day 27

  Stage 26. O Cebreiro - Triacastela (20.8 km)

  The first stage fully in Galicia. You leave O Cebreiro gaining altitude, with views of the Navia valley and the Ancares to the north and the Serra do Courel to the south. You crest the Alto de San Roque, with its statue of the pilgrim battling the wind, and the Alto do Poio (1,337 m), the highest point of the Camino in Galicia. Then a long descent through hamlets and chestnut groves down to Triacastela.

• day 28

  Stage 27. Triacastela - Sarria (17.9 km)

  Leaving Triacastela you get to choose: via San Xil, shorter and through one of the most beautiful valleys on the Camino, among chestnut and oak woods; or via Samos, a little longer but with a visit to its spectacular Benedictine monastery, one of the oldest in Spain (1,500 years of monastic life). Both routes meet up again before Sarria. Whichever you choose, you can't go wrong.

• day 29

  Stage 28. Sarria - Portomarín (22 km)

  You say goodbye to Sarria along Rúa Maior and, after the viewpoint by the stone cross, head down to the medieval bridge of Áspera. Between meadows, stone walls and woodland you pass through Barbadelo and its Romanesque church, reaching Morgade and its famous 100 km marker. The path continues through hamlets to Portomarín: cross its long bridge and climb the staircase in one go… they say stopping brings bad luck!

• day 30

  Stage 29. Portomarín - Palas de Rei (25 km)

  You leave Portomarín, crossing the Miño, and climb through hamlets to Castromaior, with its impressive Celtic hillfort that's worth the short detour. You crest the Ligonde ridge, with fine views, passing the famous Os Lameiros wayside cross (1679) and the Vilar de Donas church, once home to the Knights of Santiago. Through more hamlets you reach Palas de Rei, the end of the stage.

• day 31

  Stage 30. Palas de Rei - Arzúa (29 km)

  The longest stage of the Camino Francés in Galicia (29 km), but also one of the prettiest: take it slow. Now in the province of A Coruña, dirt tracks, lush woodland and medieval bridges guide your steps. A must-stop in Melide, the capital of pulpo á feira. And before Arzúa, an oasis: Ribadiso de Abaixo, where you can take a dip in the river if the weather allows.

• day 32

  Stage 31. Arzúa - O Pedrouzo (20 km)

  A pleasant walk over comfortable, flat terrain, with plenty of bars and restaurants to take it easy. You alternate between hamlets and pine and eucalyptus woods, with Salceda marking the halfway point of the day, a good spot to recharge. From there, only a few quiet final kilometres remain to O Pedrouzo. You can already smell Santiago.

• day 33

  Stage 32. O Pedrouzo - Santiago de Compostela (19 km)

  Last stage! The earlier you set off, the sooner you'll set foot in Compostela. The magic moment arrives at Monte do Gozo, when you catch your first glimpse of the cathedral towers: a perfect view to savour the final kilometres. Shortly after, your triumphant arrival at Plaza del Obradoiro. You've completed your Camino Francés and you're in Santiago!

• day 34

  End of the Camino

  After arriving... End of the Camino