French Way from Burgos to León

Stages

• day 1

  Arrival at Burgos

  We leave San Juan de Ortega in the direction of Burgos along a dirt track through a pine forest and arrive at Agés. From here we continue by road to Atapuerca, where we can visit the interesting archaeological site.

  We begin the ascent to the Sierra de Atapuerca along a stony track. At the top we can already see Burgos in the background. We go down to Villabal and we get to a local road, practically without traffic.

  Just at the exit of the village we turn left to take a track and start the ascent by the Atapuerca Mountains. We will continue the ascent to the Alto de Atapuerca, not very steep, but not very firm, so, with care, we will ascend until we reach the Cruz de Madera, from where we can see the city of Burgos. It was on the plain that we can see from here that the battle of Atapuerca was fought, which would govern the distribution of the Spanish kingdoms in the 11th century.

  From here we will begin to descend through a complicated area until we reach Cardeñuela Riopico, right next to the river, where we will find a place to rest. We continue towards Burgos, passing through Orbajena Riopico, to reach the crossroads that will decide our entry into the Castilian city.

  Here you can decide whether to take a shorter route, but through a completely urban and industrial area, or take the longer route that will take us around the airport, but we will enter Burgos through a beautiful park. And now we are in Burgos, where we will find the Cathedral of Santa María de Burgos, one of the most imposing in the country, as well as the home of the tomb of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, the Cid Campeador.

  To consider

  If on our way from San Juan de Ortega to Burgos we take the variant of Castañares We must cross a pedestrian crossing of the national road N-120, take Óbidus street until the end, skirt a big factory on the right, and cross the Arlanzón river by a pedestrian bridge; from there, and until the Old Town of Burgos itself, we follow a pedestrian walk along the Arlanzón river.

  Pilgrims wishing to visit the Atapuerca Archaeological Site should make their reservation in advance at http://www.atapuerca.org/.

  Places of interest

  • Atapuerca Archaeological Site
  • Burgos Cathedral - Burgos
  • Church of San Nicolás - Burgos
  • The Castle and its Viewpoint - Burgos

  Typical dishes

  • Suckling lamb
  • Grilled cutlets
  • "Rotten pot"
  • Burgos black pudding
  • Burgos Cheese
  • Castilian soup
  • Crayfish
• day 2

  Stage 1. Burgos - Hornillos del Camino (21 km)

  If we do our Camino in summer it is very important to leave Burgos early to avoid the sunny roads without shade before arriving at Hornillos del Camino. We leave the city from the Cathedral until we reach the bridge of Malatos, leaving the Monastery of Las Huelgas and the Hospital del Rey on our left. We leave the road on the right and take a path that leads us to Villalbilla.

  We cross the railway tracks and continue until we cross the river again over the Archbishop's Bridge and enter Tardajos, which welcomes us with an elegant 18th century transept. We leave the road and take a country road that crosses the small valley of the river Urbel. Formerly it was a complicated access due to the floods of the river that devastated the land. Hence the well-known saying: "From Rabé to Tardajos, you will not lack for work; from Tardajos to Rabé Free us, Dómine!" We arrive at Rabé de las Calzadas. The Camino continues for nine kilometres along rural roads between cereal fields.

  We reach the highest point of the stage and descend along the Cuesta de Matamulos to the valley of the river Hormazuelas.

  Already in Hornillos, we will be able to see a village street crowned at the end by a parish church, after which we will be able to observe a beautiful sunset over the golden fields of cereal.

  To consider

  We can stick to the Burgos - Hornillos del Camino stage or extend it and do 31 km to Hontanas, which has several hostels. Or go to San Bol, which has a lonely hostel in the middle of the vastness. It is not an easy stage for the cyclists, who will have to get off the bike in some sections and cover them on foot.

  In the summer months it is essential to carry a water bottle full of water, sunscreen and sun visors or hats to protect you from the scorching sun. In winter, on the other hand, we will need good warm clothes to resist the frost.

  Places of interest

  • Hermitage of the Virgin of the Monastery - Rabé de las Calzadas
  • Palace of the Count of Villariezo - Rabé de las Calzadas
  • Parish Church of San Román Mártir - Hornillos del Camino

  Typical dishes

  • Burgos black pudding
  • Fresh cheese from Burgos
  • Suckling lamb
• day 3

  Stage 2. Hornillos del Camino - Castrojeriz (19.9 km)

  We leave the village of Hornillos del Camino and head towards Castrojeriz between the endless paths of the cereal fields, practically without seeing the shadow of a tree for several kilometres. We find a small detour that will take us, if we opt for it, to San Bol, a small and secluded place that lives by and for the Camino. We continue for several kilometres to the town of Hontanas, where we can make the first tactical stop of the day.

  After a long stretch of flat land we find the Monastery of San Antón, converted into a private hostel, but which was once the Palace of King Pedro I of Castile, and which was ceded to the Order of the Antonians. In the arches of the old church the parishioners performed the cure of the fire of San Antón, a very widespread food disease in the Middle Ages.

  And without further ado, we arrive at Castrojeriz where we will find the churches of San Esteban and San Juan. If we still have strength left we can visit the Castle of Castrojeriz, where it is said that Queen Leonor of Castile was assassinated by order of Pedro I. A highly recommended visit to enjoy its views, which will make the cereal fields look, at sunset, like a huge golden sea.

  To consider

  As in the previous stage, it is important to go out with plenty of water and sun protection, and to avoid walking during the hottest hours of the day.

  Places of interest

  • Hontanas - Church of the Immaculate Conception
  • Church of the Virgen del Manzano - Castrojeriz
  • Church of San Juan - Castrojeriz
  • Main Square and Town Hall - Castrojeriz
  • Hospital General San Antón - Castrojeriz
  • Castle of Castrojeriz - Castrojeriz

  Typical dishes

  • Aged sheep's milk cheese
  • Suckling lamb and pigeons
  • Stick threads
  • Esparceta (alcoholic beverage made from wine and other ingredients)
• day 4

  Stage 3. Castrojeriz - Frómista (24.7 km)

  We leave Castrojeriz towards Frómista and face the first challenge of the stage. We cross a wooden bridge that takes us to the Alto de Mostelares. After a steep slope we admire the flat landscape of the Castilian plateau and descend along a tarmac road.

  The path gradually becomes flat and leads us to the Piojo fountain, a perfect spring to quench our thirst. We will continue through the parish of San Nicolás to reach the Fitero bridge, over the Pisuerga, the old border between Castile and Aragón.

  We cross the river and arrive at Itero de la Vega, where we should stock up to complete the remaining 8 km to finish the stage. We leave behind the hermitage of Nuestra Señora de la PIedad and the Church of San Pedro, cross a road and head towards Boadilla del Camino. This route does not have any shade. We continue leaving behind the church of the Asunción to go directly to Frómista, parallel to the Canal de Castilla, which will give us the entrance to the end of this stage.

  To consider

  As in previous stages, exposure to the sun is almost total.

  Places of interest

  • Fitero Bridge - Hermitage of San Nicolás
  • Itero de la Vega - Ermita de la Piedad (Chapel of La Piedad)
  • Itero de la Vega - Church of San Pedro
  • Boadilla del Camino - Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción
  • Frómista - Church of San Martín
  • Frómista - Church of San Pedro
  • Bodegas Zarzavilla (guided tour available)

  Typical dishes

  • Pigeon
  • Vegetable stew
  • Suckling lamb
  • Sausages and sausages from Palencia
  • Country biscuits
  • Sequillos
• day 5

  Stage 4. Frómista - Carrión de los Condes (18.8 km)

  We start the stage following the course of the P-980 road, which joins Frómista and Carrión de los Condes in a straight line. After passing a couple of roundabouts we arrive at Población de Campos, where we can make a small detour to visit the hermitage of San Miguel.

  We leave the village, where we can stock up on supplies if necessary, we cross the Ucieza River and we arrive at Revenga de Campos. In this small village we can appreciate emblazoned houses of the XVI century, in one of which Carlos V spent the night. We cross Revenga and without anything to emphasize we arrive at Villarmentero de Campos.

  From here we have two alternatives:

  • Option A) Follow the road for 7 km until you reach Villalcázar de Sirga.
  • Option B) Return to the riverbed and follow it along a path of willows, poplars and poplars to the hermitage of the Virgen del Río. From here we return to the road and reach Villalcázar.

  In Villalcázar de Sirga, we can visit the Templar church of Santa María la Blanca, outstanding for its 13th century façade, which has been declared an Asset of Cultural Interest.

  The remaining 5 kilometres of the stage are unremarkable. We follow the C-908 road which we leave just as we enter Carrión de los Condes.

  To consider

  Unless you are in a hurry, we do not recommend extending the stage to Calzadilla de la Cueza, as Carrión is much more culturally interesting and has many more services.

  Places of interest

  • Hermitage of San Miguel - Población de Campos
  • Ermita del Socorro - Campos Town Hall
  • Santa María la Blanca - Villalcázar de Sirga
  • Church of Santiago - Carrión de los Condes
  • Royal Monastery of San Zoilo - Carrion de los Condes

  Typical dishes

  • Garlic soup
  • Pardina lentils with chorizo sausage
  • Castilian Soup
  • Menestra Palentina
  • Snails Palentina style
  • Rabbit in the hunter
  • Amarguillos
• day 6

  Stage 5. Carrión de los Condes - Sahagún (37 km)

  During this stage, the plains and cereal fields will continue to be the protagonists. It is important to keep in mind that today you will face the longest distance of the Camino without services, so it is very important that you prepare yourself to carry everything you need before starting the stage. The route passes through important Jacobean villages such as Calzadilla de la Cueza, Ledigos and Terradillo de los Templarios. The adobe dovecotes and Mudejar constructions will accompany you throughout the stage making the scenery a little more enjoyable.
• day 7

  Stage 6. Sahagún - El Burgo Ranero (23.2 km)

  We leave Terradillo de los Templarios in the direction of Bercianos del Real Camino passing through Moratinos, which we reach by a path between cereal fields. In Moratinos we can make a short stop to appreciate the temple of Santo Tomás de Aquino, with an image of the Virgin from the 16th century. We leave Moratinos behind to reach, two kilometres further on, San Nicolás del Real Camino. We continue towards the N-120 that will take us to Sahagún, obligatory stop of the stage.

  We will enter the town centre near the station, crossing the railway track by an overpass. Here we will find the sanctuary of Facundo and Primitivo, temple of the Order of Cluny and other monuments declared of Cultural Interest: The churches of San Lorenzo and San Tirso, of La Peregrina and the ruins of the Royal Monastery of San Benito.

  In addition, we will be able to obtain the Pilgrim Card. This "half Compostela" certifies that we have done half of the French Way, which is no joke.

  With all the regret, we leave Sahagún behind, and we enter the path parallel to the N-120, which leads us to a detour. Here we can choose the variant of Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, or continue along the original French route. We will continue walking for about an hour until we reach Bercianos del Real Camino, where we will have all the necessary services to stock up and we will give the end of today's stage.

  To consider

  To follow the French Way to Bercianos we must not cross the A-231 motorway. There is continuous sabotage of the signage that confuses pilgrims.

  If you wish to collect the Pilgrim's Charter in Sahagún, we recommend you go early to avoid crowds and queues. We can extend the stage to Burgo Ranero, which has more services than Bercianos.

  Places of interest

  • Church of St. Thomas Aquinas - Moratinos
  • Monastic Monastery of San Benito - Sahagún
  • Church of San Lorenzo - Sahagún
  • Church of San Tirso - Sahagún
  • Shrine of the Pilgrim Virgin - Sahagún

  Typical dishes

  • Blood sausage, jerky and chorizo sausage
  • Game meat such as hare, rabbit, partridge, etc.
  • Pulses and vegetables
  • Guarantee Mark.
  • Amarguillos
• day 8

  Stage 7. El Burgo Ranero - Mansilla de las Mulas (18 km)

  The 18 kilometres of this stage are characterised by flat terrain, and therefore quite easy. After 15 kilometers of walking, you will find a wooded area where you can stop for a break. A few kilometres away is the village of Reliegos. After leaving this small village, the road continues without loss until the end of the stage in Mansilla de las Mulas.
• day 9

  Stage 8. Mansilla de las Mulas - León (18.5 km)

  We leave Mansilla de las Mulas in the direction of León, crossing the eight-arched bridge over the Esla, and head towards Villamoros de Mansilla. Here we can take a small detour to see the Monastery of Santa María de Sandoval, of which ruins remain.

  After almost 5 kilometres of walking, we arrive at Villamoros de Mansilla, a village not currently crossed by the Camino but which we can take as an alternative to try to avoid for a stretch along the shoulder of the road.

  We advance to Puente Villarente and after crossing the river Porma we find several services where we can get supplies. We continue along the Arriola Canal to reach a tunnel that crosses the motorway to get to Arcahueja. We look out over the Alto del Portillo, a watchtower that allows us to contemplate the banks of the river Toribio and the hamlet of León. We continue straight on along a gravel track and arrive at the rest area of Valdelafuente, a village that is not worth entering.

  We start to see the first industrial buildings and we come across the church of San Juan Bautista. We leave a cemetery on the right and arrive at a crossroads that leads us to the industrial estate.

  We arrive without further ado at Puente Castro, the prelude to the capital of León. From here we only have to cover the last stretch of this thankless stage, rewarded by the attractions of the city of León. We cross the Toribio River over a pedestrian footbridge and walk along Alcalde Miguel Castañón Avenue until we reach the Plaza de Santa Ana and complete the last kilometre to the city centre.

  To consider

  There is a signposted variant at the exit of Mansilla de las Mulas and ends in Villamoros de Mansilla, allowing you to visit the magnificent Cistercian monastery of Santa María de Sandoval. Lengthens the route by 5.5 km.

  Places of interest

  • Monastery of Santa María de Sandoval - Villaverde de Sandoval (Mansilla Mayor)
  • León Cathedral - León
  • Roman Wall and Medieval Fence - León
  • Castle of León - León
  • Mansions and Palaces of the Old Town - León

  Typical dishes

  • Potage
  • Botillo
  • Cocido Maragato or Cocido Montañés (Maragato Stew or Mountain Stew)
  • Pork Mince
  • Trout
• day 10

  End of the Camino

  After arriving... End of the Camino