The Cathedral of Santiago, in addition to housing the relics of the Apostle James and being a destination for all pilgrims, contains an iconic element of the city. The Botafumeiro, that great flying censer, is, as you may know, one of the main attractions of Santiago de Compostela and its cathedral. Join us as we discover everything about the Botafumeiro, the icon of Santiago de Compostela, and one of the symbols of the Camino de Santiago.
The Botafumeiro, a symbol of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and the Camino de Santiago
History of the Botafumeiro
The use of censers in Christian liturgy is very common, and its use derives from precedents in Jewish worship. Even in ancient Eastern rites, from Egypt to Greece, the use of incense and the act of censing were recorded, especially in solemn rituals. Today, the Botafumeiro of Santiago is not the only existing censer, but it is perhaps the most famous in all of Christendom.
Before delving into the history of this censer, let’s clarify its name. The word Botafumeiro is the term by which the censer of Santiago de Compostela has been known since the 19th century. This word literally means, in Galician, “the one that expels smoke”, which in more technical terms is called a thurible.
The use of censers in Christian liturgy is common
Origins and early uses
The origins of the turibulum magnum or “great censer” date back to the 14th century. A marginal note in the Codex Calixtinus dated 1322 records the use of a censer related to the procession of the relics of Santiago Alfeo.
Its early uses had a liturgical sense, associating the smell of incense with a purifying effect. However, the Botafumeiro also had a practical function, which was to freshen the air inside the cathedral. Until the 16th century, pilgrims not only gathered in the cathedral to venerate the Apostle but even spent the night inside it. At that time, the smell in the cathedral could be quite intense, and the incense helped maintain a more pleasant atmosphere.
Initially, the censer would have been installed on a primitive wooden beam system, perhaps in the transept of the cathedral. We don’t have much information about the oldest censers, and it is believed they were made of silver and shaped differently from the one we know today. Popular collective memory, though lacking documentary certainty, recalls a silver censer confiscated by Napoleon’s army in 1809 during the French invasion. Could it perhaps have been the one funded by King Louis XV of France in the 15th century?
The Botafumeiro beneath the dome, ready to fly in the cathedral’s transept
Evolution through the centuries
Between the 15th and 16th centuries, work was carried out on the new dome of the cathedral’s transept, where the Botafumeiro is located today. In this context, Juan Bautista Celma, a versatile artist sometimes referred to as “the Spanish Leonardo da Vinci,” comes into play. In the late 16th century, this man devised a cast-iron framework that replaced the previous wooden one. Interestingly, he designed a pulley mechanism that allows the censer to fly across the cathedral’s transept without danger.
As we can see, the Botafumeiro has evolved both in its flying system and in its design and size. Perhaps made to replace the one stolen by the French, the current Botafumeiro dates from 1851 and was crafted by the Compostela silversmith José Losada. In 1971, a copy was made, donated by the Brotherhood of Provisional Ensigns of Madrid. Both are preserved in the Chapter Library.
Altar of the Cathedral of Santiago, presiding over the flight of the Botafumeiro
Meaning and function of the Botafumeiro
The use of the Botafumeiro has been maintained over the years, becoming an essential part of the traditions of Santiago de Compostela.
Religious and symbolic importance
The Botafumeiro is not just a ceremonial object but holds deep symbolic meaning, representing prayer and purification. The smoke from the incense rises to the heavens just like the prayers of the faithful, reinforcing the spiritual connection with the divine.
Use in ceremonies and liturgies
The Botafumeiro is used in special ceremonies within the cathedral. During solemn masses, especially on important occasions, its impressive flight through the cathedral’s central nave is a spectacle. It’s moving to see it fly while the organ music resonates within the cathedral.
Detail of the knot and rope of the Botafumeiro
Design and craftsmanship of the Botafumeiro
As mentioned earlier, we don’t have much information about the old Botafumeiros. Today, there are two, but let’s focus on the one commonly used, crafted by José Losada in 1851.
Materials and techniques
Made of silver-plated brass, it measures 1.50 meters in height from the ring to the base, with a central body of 90 cm. The coals and incense are placed in it, with its widest diameter being 59 cm. The total weight of the censer reaches 54 kilos.
This famous piece was restored for the first time in April 2006, reinforcing its brass and bronze structure and renewing its silver plating. The restoration was carried out by the Molina Acedo workshop in Madrid. With unique craftsmanship, it is a testament to the talent and dedication of the silversmiths who created it.
Flight of the Botafumeiro
Flight of the Botafumeiro
For the Botafumeiro to achieve its famous flight, it is tied to a thick rope about 60 meters long. This passes through an iron framework located in the cathedral’s dome, 22 meters high, and through a pulley.
The rope descends to the floor of the main altar, where the tiraboleiros, 8 strong men, are responsible for pulling it. With the Botafumeiro raised one meter off the ground, one of them swings it slightly before joining the others to pull the rope.
They manage to lift it along the 65-meter-wide nave of the transept, forming an arc of about 50 meters. According to expert engineers, the Botafumeiro reaches a speed of 68 km/h and a maximum angle of 82º. It is designed so that it never hits the ceiling, remaining one meter away during each flight. Its time in motion is about five minutes.
Two tiraboleiros prepare the Botafumeiro
The Botafumeiro in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
Watching the Botafumeiro in action at the Cathedral of Santiago is one of the city’s most important attractions. Activated after the sacrament of communion during mass, let’s see when you can witness it in operation.
Events and festivities: schedules and activation days
The Botafumeiro is activated during masses celebrated on special occasions, such as the dates indicated in the cathedral’s liturgical calendar. The website of the Santiago de Compostela Pilgrim’s Office indicates the following dates:
- Epiphany of the Lord: January 6
- Easter Sunday
- Ascension of the Lord
- Apparition of the Apostle-Clavijo: May 23
- Pentecost
- Martyrdom of St. James: July 25
- Assumption of Mary: August 15
- All Saints’ Day: November 1
- Christ the King
- Immaculate Conception: December 8
- Christmas: December 25
- Translation of the Apostle’s Relics: December 30
The time of the mass may vary, although it is very common to see it during the 12:00 and 19:30 masses.
Additionally, it is possible to make a donation to the cathedral to have the Botafumeiro activated upon request by the faithful for any mass. This option is very common among large groups of pilgrims who complete the Camino de Santiago. In this way, they are also reserved a front-row seat and receive a special mention during the mass. Information on how to request it can be found on the aforementioned website.
Generally, there are more opportunities to see it in action during Holy Years in Santiago.
In addition to the opening of the Holy Door, during a Holy Year in Santiago, you’ll have more chances to see the Botafumeiro fly
Curiosities of the Botafumeiro: anecdotes and legends
You’re probably wondering if there has been any accident, mishap, or fall of the Botafumeiro in history, right?
Over the years, the Botafumeiro has been the protagonist of numerous anecdotes and legends. In 1499, it shot out through the As Praterías door in front of Princess Catherine. She was the daughter of the Catholic Monarchs and was on pilgrimage to Santiago before traveling to Great Britain to marry the Prince of Wales. In 1622, less spectacularly, the rope broke, and it fell to the ground.
In the 20th century, it came loose on July 26, during the Holy Year of 1937. It is said that the noise was mistaken for that of a bomb from the Civil War. And more recently, it broke the ribs and nose of an unsuspecting person who got too close. In no case were human lives lost.
How to witness the Botafumeiro in action
Take note: arriving early is recommended to secure a good spot from which to watch. However, this could mean waiting in line for at least 30 to 60 minutes. If you’ve never seen it, we guarantee that the wait will be worth it.
Watching this icon of Santiago Compostela fly is something you should do at least once in your life. If you wish to see the Botafumeiro in action, plan your visit to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela during one of the solemn masses. Who knows, perhaps after walking one of the Jacobean routes, completing your experience in a special way.
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