What to see and do in Grandas de Salime

Grandas de Salime is the final municipality of The Primitive Way in Asturian lands, on the border with Galicia, and many of its inhabitants speak Galician. It holds the Colegiata de El Salvador, with its 12th-century Romanesque portal, the essential "Pepe el Ferreiro" Ethnographic Museum, the great reservoir that gives the municipality its name, and the Chao Samartín hillfort site, key to understanding the north-west of the Iberian Peninsula.

From its more recent history, the construction of the Salime Reservoir remains a defining event. Work began at the end of 1945, ultimately leaving the village of Salime submerged beneath its waters. A total of 685 hectares were flooded, including 1,995 farms with more than 3,000 plots of land, 25,360 timber trees, 13,800 fruit trees, 14,051 vines, 8 bridges, 5 small churches, 5 cemeteries, and several chapels.

Today, when the water level of the reservoir is low, the remains of the old village ravaged by the waters can still be seen.

Would you like to walk this part of the Camino with your accommodation booked for every stage? These organised trips pass through Grandas de Salime: Primitive Way from Oviedo to Lugo, Camino Primitivo from Oviedo to Santiago de Compostela and The Primitive Way from Oviedo by bicycle.

Collegiate Church of El Salvador

The original church dates back to the 12th century; the old Romanesque doorway is still preserved inside the temple. This portal, featuring triple cylindrical and spiral columns, surrounds the baptismal font. The holy water font and two gargoyles are also preserved, while two Romanesque tombs under ogival arches can be found on the south wall. Outside, the building is distinguished by the covered gallery (cabildo) that encircles it.

The main altarpiece, crowned by the figure of the Saviour, dates from the 17th century. The church houses several ancient images from the temple of Salime, which disappeared beneath the waters of the reservoir. Also noteworthy are the chased iron plates on the inner door, similar in craftsmanship to the ironwork of Lugo Cathedral.

"Pepe el Ferreiro" Ethnographic Museum

The Ethnographic Museum of Grandas de Salime is a public institution dedicated to researching, conserving, and sharing the tangible and intangible heritage of Western Asturias. It is an essential visit to discover the way of life of rural Asturian families in past decades.

Across vast facilities spanning 3,150 m² and featuring over 11,000 objects, the museum recreates common village spaces: from a tavern and a grocery store to a barber shop, a cobbler's, and a forge, offering an immersive journey into the region's past.

Grandas de Salime Reservoir

This magnificent work of engineering was inaugurated in 1954. The dam stands 132 m high, and the reservoir extends 36 km upstream. Several viewpoints along the right side of the road offer spectacular panoramic views. The reservoir is suitable for sailing and water sports, and a boat service connects the Pénjamo pier with Villarpedre.

Chao Samartín Hillfort and Museum

Chao Samartín is one of the key archaeological sites for understanding the origin of the hillfort (castro) phenomenon in the northwest of the peninsula, as well as the evolution of its inhabitants and their links with other peoples.

Its origins as a settlement date back to the Bronze Age (approx. 800 BC), when the first fortified enclosure was established. After successive renovations of its defences during the Iron Age, it became a prosperous administrative capital during the Roman era, a status it maintained until an earthquake destroyed the settlement in the 2nd century AD.

www.grandasdesalime.es