The Way to San Andrés de Teixido

In the beautiful Galician Rías Altas, there is a hidden gem nestled between rugged cliffs and green pastures that must be visited at least once in a lifetime. A village that breathes the sea and the mountains, born around a sanctuary and a legend, and one that many people pilgrimage to every year. We’re not talking about our beloved Jacobean route; instead, we’re on the way to San Andrés de Teixido.

Maybe the name doesn’t sound familiar, and perhaps you wouldn’t be able to point it on the map. One thing it shares with Santiago de Compostela is that San Andrés de Teixido, with its sanctuary, is also a pilgrimage destination for many pilgrims every year, just like the Camino de Santiago.

View of San Andrés de Teixido

San Andrés de Teixido

San Andrés de Teixido is located to the north of the province of A Coruña, in the Ortegal region, and belongs to the municipality of Cedeira. Nestled at the edge of the sea of the Sierra da Capelada, in the so-called Costa Ártabra, it is a village where time seems to have stopped.

When you first arrive at San Andrés, you might think, “Who lives here?”. The inhabited area consists of just around thirty houses and a main street centered around a church and sanctuary dedicated to San Andrés. In fact, the population in 2020 was recorded at 49 people (32 men and 17 women). Teixido, on the other hand, is the Galician term referring to the yew tree, abundant in the area.

Despite its small size, which makes it feel like we’re in a fairytale, San Andrés de Teixido offers visitors many things to see, learn about, and of course, walk. Its sublime natural surroundings host a church and sanctuary that is the end of an ancient pilgrimage route. Additionally, the place is home to ancient traditions and legends that captivate.

Free-roaming animals in the Sierra de A Capelada

The History and Legend of St. Andrew: It’s Death Who Hasn’t Gone Alive

Probably, Saint Andrew was the first apostle of Jesus, and in fact, he was known as “the first called” and, alongside his brother Saint Peter, “fishers of men”. The legend places him on these coasts near the finis terrae. One day Saint Andrew became very sad because his temple was situated far from the pilgrims. These pilgrims preferred to visit the tomb of Santiago, as reaching Compostela was the easier and more comfortable route. In fact, it is said that the legend originated because Saint Andrew was jealous of Santiago.

Seeing Saint Andrew’s distress, God took pity on him and granted him a divine concession: no one enters the kingdom of heaven without visiting his sanctuary first. And those who don’t do it while alive will be punished by doing it after death. That’s why we told you at the beginning of this post that you must go at least once in your lifetime, as the locals and hundreds of pilgrims and hikers do each year.

Altarpiece of the Sanctuary of San Andrés de Teixido

What to See and Do in San Andrés de Teixido and Surroundings

Just because it’s small doesn’t mean it’s boring. Visiting this picturesque fairytale village is already impressive just for its natural surroundings, declared a Site of Community Importance. In its virgin green mountains, semi-wild cows and horses roam, and the coastal and cliff panoramas simply leave you speechless.

San Andrés Village and Sanctuary

The small inhabited core has great tourist appeal in its few square meters. The Church of San Andrés, small in size and in a sailor style, contains an image of the saint in a beautiful Baroque altarpiece. Outside, and just a few meters away, is the Gruta del Santo, a small cave with ex-votos, offerings, candles, and ship models.

Fuente de los Tres Caños

After visiting the temple, we can go down a stone staircase and visit the Saint’s fountain or Fuente de los Tres Caños. The legend says that here, water with healing properties flows from the altar of the church. Tradition instructs us to make three wishes and drink from each spout. Lastly, we must throw a piece of bread into the nearby stream: if it floats, our wishes will be granted.

The Sanandresiños

Once we’ve fulfilled our duties with the saint, we must also follow the traditions of San Andrés de Teixido. Outside the church, small shops sell the area’s most typical souvenirs, the sanandresiños, amulets made from unfermented bread dough.

Sanandresiños, typical souvenirs from San Andrés de Teixido

The locals knead, shape, bake, and decorate these amulets which have different meanings:

• The saint: health.
• The flower: love.
• The hand: studies.
• The sardine: food.
• The ladder: work.
• The boat: travel.
• The crown: protection.
• The dove: peace.

Also, the locals will offer the herba de namorar or “love herb.” According to the legend, if a lover places it in the pocket of their beloved, they will succeed in winning their heart thanks to the magical spell of this small herb.

Local Gastronomy

It’s time to rest and regain strength after so much visiting and tradition-following, and what better way than tasting the typical gooseneck barnacles and fabulous octopus served at the village’s three taverns. Paired with a fresh Galician white wine, the journey to Cabo del Mundo, as the place is also known, is still not over.

Gooseneck barnacles, a typical snack in San Andrés de Teixido

Geopark Cabo Ortegal

Since May 2023, this area has been integrated into the UNESCO Global Geoparks list. With great geological significance, the Geopark Cabo Ortegal offers spectacular hiking and geology routes. Just 6 km from San Andrés

is the Vixía Herbeira watchtower, the highest point of the cliffs with an altitude of 615 meters above sea level. Generally immersed in fog, the lucky ones who see it clear will enjoy sublime views.

Monument to Leslie Howard

The actor from the Hollywood classic “Gone with the Wind,” Leslie Howard, was apparently a spy during World War II. Paradoxically, he died 2 km from San Andrés, as the plane he was traveling in on his last mission was shot down by enemy aviation.

In the area are the highest cliffs of Continental Europe

The Camino de San Andrés de Teixido

In the 18th century, Father Sarmiento, a Benedictine monk and travel writer walked through various areas of Galicia. In the province of Pontevedra, he traveled and documented the Route of Padre Sarmiento, which connects to the stages of the Camino de Santiago Portugués.

In 1755, he covered the route to the San Andrés de Teixido sanctuary from the monastery of San Martiño de Xuvia (Narón), which passes through the Camino Inglés from Ferrol. This is how the Camiño Vello or Old Camino to San Andrés de Teixido was born, which, at a total of 40 km, can be done in one day or a weekend. Since then, hundreds of pilgrims have followed in his footsteps and headed to San Andrés de Teixido, popularizing the sanctuary and the way to this day.

Plaque in San Andrés de Teixido commemorating Father Sarmiento’s journey

Stages of the Camino de San Andrés de Teixido via Camiño Vello

When we talk about stages, we always emphasize that they will depend on your time and preparation, as well as finding places to stay. As a proposal, the stages would be two:

• Stage 1: San Martiño de Xuvia Monastery in Narón – O Porto do Cabo (25 km)
• Stage 2: O Porto do Cabo – San Andrés de Teixido (15 km)

Stage 1 could also start from the Santa Comba chapel in Covas (Ferrol). And aside from this Camiño Vello, there are other variants that depart from different points and vary their mileage, such as:

• GR 55 – Camiño de Santo André (75.9 km).
• Ruta dos Peiraos (15 km).
• Camiño dos Cantís (20.5 km).
• Camiño do Mar (36 km).

You can learn more here.

Pilgrims on the Camino de San Andrés

Can You Do the Camino de San Andrés? Things to Keep in Mind

This route is the perfect complement for pilgrims who take one of the shorter routes of the Camino de Santiago and are left wanting more. If that’s you and you decide to take on this adventure, make sure to consider these tips to keep in mind:

• Accommodation: on the route, you will find accommodations, mostly rural houses, that are often not directly on the route. You might need to rely on support vehicles or taxis, especially if you’re thinking about transporting your luggage.
• Signposting: this route is marked with milestones similar to those on the Camino de Santiago, with the red fish of San Andrés indicating the direction to take, as well as the kilometers to San Andrés de Teixido. However, it’s always advisable to carry a GPS or rely on an app for the Camino or hiking in general.

Additionally, you should know that there is a specific credential for this route, which you can request for free at the tourist offices in Ferrol (A Coruña)… don’t forget to get it stamped along the way!

Come Alive to San Andrés de Teixido!

This beautiful village has so much to offer as one of the most beautiful villages and natural surroundings in Galicia. If you’re also a walker, San Andrés de Teixido offers a short but intense pilgrimage route in the far north of Galicia. It’s almost better to go alive than dead so you can fully enjoy the fascinating wild landscapes, ancestral traditions and legends, and the magic that always envelops Galicia.