The Way to San Andrés de Teixido

The Camino de San Andrés de Teixido is a traditional Jacobean route in the north of Galicia that follows the footsteps of pilgrims towards the marine sanctuary of San Andrés de Teixido, a legendary village perched on cliffs above the Atlantic known for its strong spiritual tradition and popular myth. The journey, like the Camiño Vello, can be undertaken in one or several days and combines wild nature, history, and rural heritage, offering an alternative or complement to other routes of the Camino de Santiago for those seeking a more intimate and symbolic experience in the Galician Rías Altas.

In the beautiful Galician Rías Altas, there is a small gem hidden among steep cliffs and green pastures that must be visited at least once in a lifetime. A village that breathes sea and mountain, born around a sanctuary and a legend, to which many people head each year on pilgrimage. We are not talking about our beloved pilgrimage route, but rather we are on the Way to San Andrés de Teixido.

You may not recognize the name, and perhaps you cannot pinpoint it on the map. One thing it has in common with Santiago de Compostela: San Andrés de Teixido, with its sanctuary, is also a destination for many pilgrims each year, just like the Camino de Santiago.

San Andrés de Teixido

San Andrés de Teixido is located in the north of the province of A Coruña, in the comarca of Ortegal, and belongs to the municipality of Cedeira. Nestled on the descent to the sea of the sierra da Capelada, in the so-called Ártabra coast, it is a village where time seems to have stopped.

When one arrives in San Andrés for the first time, they might think, "who lives here?". The inhabited core consists of barely thirty houses and a main street around a church and sanctuary dedicated to San Andrés. In fact, the population register in 2020 recorded 49 people (32 men and 17 women). Teixido, for its part, is the Galician term that refers to the yew tree, abundant in the area.

Despite its size, which makes us feel like we are in a fairy tale, San Andrés de Teixido offers visitors many things to see, learn about, and, of course, walk. Its sublime natural surroundings house a church and sanctuary that is the destination of an ancient pilgrimage route. Furthermore, the place retains ancient traditions and legends that captivate.

The story and legend of San Andrés: it is about the dead who were not alive

Probably Saint Andrew was the first apostle of Jesus, and in fact he was known as "the first called" and, along with his brother Saint Peter, "fishers of men." The legend places him on these coasts near the finis terrae. One day Saint Andrew felt very sad, as his temple was located far from the pilgrims. These, moreover, preferred to visit the tomb of Santiago, as reaching Compostela wasthe easiest and most comfortable Way. In fact, it is said that the legend arises because Saint Andrew felt jealous of Santiago.

In the face of Saint Andrew's distress, God took pity on him and granted him a divine concession: no one enters the kingdom of heaven without visiting his sanctuary first. And those who do not do so in life will be punished by doing it in death. That is why we told you at the beginning of this post that you must go at least once in your life, as the locals and hundreds of pilgrims and hikers do every year.

What to see and do in San Andrés de Teixido and surroundings

Just because it is small does not mean it has to be boring. Visiting this picturesque storybook village is already impressive just for its natural surroundings, declared a Site of Community Importance. In its virgin green mountains semi-wild cows and horses inhabit, and its coastal and cliff panoramas simply leave you speechless.

Village and sanctuary of San Andrés

The small inhabited nucleus has great tourist appeal in its few square meters. The church of Saint Andrew, small in size and of nautical style, contains the image of the saint in a beautiful Baroque altarpiece. Outside, just a few meters away, is the Cave of the Saint, a small cave with ex-votos, offerings, candles, and models of boats.

Fountain of the Three Pipes

After the appropriate visit to the temple, we can descend some stone steps and visit the fountain of the Saint or fountain of the Three Spouts. Legend has it that here flows water with healing properties that springs from the altar of the church. Tradition dictates that we should make three wishes and drink from each spout. Finally, we must throw a crumb of bread into the nearby stream: if it floats, our wishes will be granted.

The sanandresians

Once we have fulfilled our duty to the saint, we must also adhere to the traditions of San Andrés de Teixido. Outside the church, there are small shops selling the most typical souvenirs of the area, the sanandresians, amulets made from unfermented bread crumbs.

The locals themselves knead, shape, bake, and decorate these amulets that have different meanings:

• The saint: health.
• The flower: love.
• The hand: studies.
• The sardine: food.
• The ladder: work.
• The boat: travel.
• The crown: protection.
• The dove: peace.

Additionally, the locals will offer the herba de namorar or "herb of love". Legend has it that if a lover places it in the pocket of a beloved person, they will succeed in winning them over thanks to the magical spell of this small herb.

Local gastronomy

It is time to rest and regain strength after so many visits and fulfilled traditions, and what better way than to taste the typical gooseneck barnacles and the fabulous octopus served in the three taverns of the area. Accompanied by a fresh Galician white wine, the journey to the Cape of the World, as the place is also known, is not yet over.

Cabo Ortegal Geopark

Since May 2023, this area has been included in the list of UNESCO Global Geoparks. With great geological importance, in the Cabo Ortegal Geopark, one can enjoy spectacular hiking and geology routes. Located 6 km from San Andrés is the Vixía Herbeira lookout, the highest point of the cliffs at 615 meters above sea level. Generally shrouded in fog, those fortunate enough to see it clear will enjoy sublime views.

Monument to Leslie Howard

The lead actor of the Hollywood classic "Gone with the Wind," Leslie Howard, was apparently a spy during World War II. Paradoxically, he died 2 km from San Andrés, as the plane he was traveling in on his last mission was shot down by enemy aviation.

The Camino de San Andrés de Teixido

In the 18th century, Father Sarmiento, a Benedictine monk and travel writer, walked through various areas of Galicia. In the province of Pontevedra, he traveled and documented the Route of Father Sarmiento, which connects with the stages of the Portuguese Way.

In 1755, he covered the route to the sanctuary of San Andrés de Teixido from the monastery of San Martiño de Xuvia (Narón), through which the English Way from Ferrol passes. Thus, the Camiño Vello or Old Way to San Andrés de Teixido was born, which, with a total of 40 km, can be completed in a day or a weekend. Since then, hundreds of pilgrims have followed in his footsteps and headed to San Andrés de Teixido, thereby popularizing the sanctuary and the route to this day.

Stages of the Camino de San Andrés de Teixido via the Camiño Vello

When we talk about stages, we always insist that they will depend on the time and preparation you have, in addition to finding places to stay overnight. As a proposal, the stages would be two:

• Stage 1: Monastery of San Martiño de Xuvia in Narón – O Porto do Cabo (25 km)
• Stage 2: O Porto do Cabo – San Andrés de Teixido (15 km)

Stage 1 could also start from the hermitage of Santa Comba, in Covas (Ferrol). And it is that, in addition to this Camiño Vello, there are other variants that depart from other points and vary in distance, such as:

• GR 55 – Camiño de Santo Andrés (75.9 km).
• Ruta dos Peiraos (15 km).
• Camiño dos Cantís (20.5 km).
• Camiño do Mar (36 km).

You can learn more here.

Can the Camino de San Andrés be done? Things to consider

Doing this route is the ideal complement for the pilgrim who undertakes any of the short routes of the Camino de Santiago and is left wanting more. If that is you and you decide to embark on this adventure, note the consult these tips you should keep in mind:

• Accommodation: on the route you will find accommodations, especially rural houses, which are often not on the route. You may need to rely on a support vehicle or taxis, especially if you are thinking of having your luggage transported.
• Signage: this route is marked with milestones similar to those of the Camino de Santiago, with the fish of San Andrés in red indicating the direction to take, as well as the kilometer point of distance to San Andrés de Teixido. However, it is always advisable to carry a GPS or rely on some application for the Camino and hiking in general.

Additionally, you should know that there is a specific pilgrim passport for this route that you can request for free at the tourist offices in Ferrol (A Coruña)… don’t forget to get it stamped along the way!

Come live to San Andrés de Teixido!

This beautiful village has much to offer as one of the most beautiful towns and natural surroundings in Galicia. If you are also one of those who enjoy walking, San Andrés de Teixido offers you a short but intense pilgrimage route in the far north. Almost better to go alive than dead to fully enjoy the fascinating wild landscapes, ancestral traditions and legends, and the magic that always envelops Galicia.